Restaurant review: Musashi Japanese Cuisine, New Lynn

A sashimi platter for four at Musashi. Photo / Doug Sherring

Address: 3073 Great North Rd, New Lynn, Auckland
Phone: (09) 826 0622
Rating out of 10: Food: 8, Service: 7, Value: 8, Ambience: 7

It's not often that Westies rave over a restaurant in New Lynn. Indeed, despite the fancy makeover lavished on the town over the last couple of years, most of the new eating places have been of the mediocre chain variety. But not Musashi, which sits on the other side of the Great North Rd from the cool new buildings.

While we do know that Musashi has sister restaurants in St Heliers and Milford, this doesn't feel in the least like a copycat. By the time we arrived at 7.30 the place was humming. It's a typical Japanese fit-out with black lacquered tables and chairs, white walls and cool pottery plates plus a range of ancient-looking table-top cookers. Very authentic, extra promising.

We started with a couple of Japanese beers and a glass of pinot gris while taking a look at the relatively complicated menu, with its obligatory pictures. Here, however, it is backed up by waiters well-trained enough to guide you through the various dishes.

Our first choice, the sashimi platter for four made us literally gasp. It was huge. For just over $11 each there were the usual rows of sliced fresh salmon and tuna, but then came the shelled prawn tails, glistening fresh and arranged like mermaids on a waterfall-style set-up. Next came a queue of raw scallops, some fine white fish arranged in tiny egg cups, all studded with mounds of pungent green wasabi and a salty, delicious soy sauce. Fabulous.

All four of our main courses were presented raw then cooked at the table. My wagyu toban, for example, arrived as four smallish raw slices, so we could exclaim the fat marbled through the meat, then seared for the requisite seconds on each side. Although the fabled meat, apparently achieved by massaging chubby beef cattle to encourage their muscles to take up the surrounding fat, was chewier than I'd expected - it was also sweeter and tastier.

The fish dish was more substantial. It arrived complete with its eggplant, vegetables and sauces but, our waiter said, was still in need of cooking. And certainly, when she lifted the lid after four minutes over another little mini cooker, fastidiously timed by a sort of stop watch, it definitely looked and smelled more appetising. Meanwhile the vegetable choice starred some of the most silky tofu I've come across, plus fish and accompanied by crisp beans, creamy aubergine, mushrooms and caramelised onions served on a banana leaf. Wow.

The other high spot was a fancy salad topped with podded edamame beans and crisp-cooked broccoli along with the lettuce and topped with a sesame dressing, which turned out tasty without being sweet. Again, it was a charmed choice that we kept nibbling at until our desserts arrived - and even after.

As with many Japanese restaurants the desserts were the lowest point.

Our drawstring crepes turned out leathery and the parfait was small and unexciting. We didn't finish any of them.

Although we'd been informed we could only stay until 9.30, which had something to do with the wait staff, we were able to linger until around 10.30. However, you certainly wouldn't call this a mid-week party place. On the other hand, it's an excellent choice for a delicious, healthy meal in restful surroundings, waited on by a team of charming young Japanese - and all for between $40 and $50 a head.

Our meal: $224.00 for two beers, a glass of wine, plus a sashimi entree and main courses for four, two plates of salty edamame beans and three desserts.

Our wine: Short and to the point offering several Japanese beers including a couple on tap, a decent range of sake and enough wine choices to suit most palates and purses.

Verdict: Musashi fills an important niche between Japanese haute cuisine and sushi bars. Attention to detail is not dropped for a moment, freshness and flavours are paramount, everything is beautifully presented although the service is friendly rather than seriously professional.