Restaurant review: Chikos, Henderson

Seafood Chowder at Chiko's, Henderson. Photo / Guy Coombes

Address: 7/255 Lincoln Rd, Henderson
Phone: 027 524 4052
Rating out of 10: Food: 8, Service: 7, Value: 8, Ambience: 7

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In just a few months, Chikos of Henderson has shot to fame. And not just with Westies. Foodies from all over the city seem to be travelling to the unglamorous Lincoln Rd, just off the interchange on the Northwestern Motorway, to try Chikos' modern European menu with its exotic references to Filipino and Spanish cuisines.

It's rather like one of those famed restaurants in LA that share a mundane shopping block - in this case including a huge Indian restaurant containing just two lonely diners. If you look carefully, Chikos is also another shop, but one that's been dressed to thrill. Once inside Chikos you can see what all the fuss is about: it's a different world, all tropical warmth, music, laughter, lights, plus a team of cheery, smiling staff who greet you like friends in waiting.

The decor is bright, with splashes of colour and highlighted with exotic Filipino art and flower arrangements, while the furniture is mostly wooden. And there, right in front of you, is a cabinet of enticing desserts - tiramisu, chocolate and caramel mousse, cremes and custards that make you want to start at the wrong end of the menu.

We were shown to a table in the far side of the restaurant and given three different menu options. First the a la carte menu, then a Chef's Tasting Set Menu ($60 for three courses) and on another card, the Chef's Specials of the Day. We decided to sample all three.

The wine list was interesting, but in the spirit of the tropics I decided to try their cider instead. Chikos bills itself as a European restaurant, and indeed there are many classic dishes on offer, but we discovered all of them were choreographed by a master, and came with a twist.

For example, my Hot Ladle Chowder entree arrived in an elaborate wreath shape, with the soup served in a metal ladle. It tasted fabulous, full of saffron, cream and pieces of tender smoked fish. Alongside was a long, crisp cylinder which I presumed to be Chikos' take on a bread roll. Only when I bit into it, did I realise the pastry was hiding a plump prawn. And, then, yet another accompaniment: a large thick piece of toasted bruschetta loaded with salsa verde.

It's these exciting extras that makes Chikos a generous, joyful place to dine. All the way through we got much more than we expected.

Brian's Set Menu began with the Akaroa salmon roulade with scallops and a glass of rather average chardonnay. The scallops especially were exceptional, everything was fresh, delicate and delicious, while the whole ensemble was laid out like a necklace on the plate.

Our other entree was the special smoked venison, topped with shaved-thin slices of crisp raw beetroot. There was plenty for us all to share, the flavours worked well together and it was perfectly seasoned.

Then along came Chikos' famous crispy paia pork knuckle and I was stopped in my tracks. This knuckle was enormous. It was served in a bowl and topped with a lattice of brilliantly crackled crackling. We all had a piece, declared it wonderful, then I looked for the meat. It was hard to find. Looking back, I should have got rid of the bone, but instead I poked around until I found a few pieces of pork, which were drier than expected but went well with my pretty bowl of fragrant rice.

Brian's lamb shank was more conventional with its slow-cooked meat and rich dark gravy while our guest sampled the special main course: a combination of chicken thigh fajitas plus a large enchilada filled with chilli con carne. Once again the size of the meal was overwhelming, but she really enjoyed her perfectly seasoned enchilada.

By now Chikos was thinning out. The patrons, mostly groups of young women on their Thursday night off domestic duties, headed home, raving loudly about their meals, while we perused the dessert fridge we'd seen on the way in. While Brian demolished a delicious chocolate mousse, we women shared a crunchy piece of dairy and gluten-free paleo slice. Not many restaurants offer that kind of attention to dietary needs.

Our meal: $187.30 for one three-course set menu, two entrees, main courses and desserts, plus a glass of wine, one of mineral water and a coffee.

Wine list: Reliable, well-priced wines to go with Chikos' well-priced food.

Verdict: Chikos fair sizzles with glamour and excitement, while the food is among the most eclectic we've found in Auckland. Every flavour, from Bangkok to Bali, Tokyo to London and Texas, gets a showing here. The service, apparently headed by Chiko herself, is high-spirited and happy. And although Chikos mirrors many elements of fine dining, it's more of a bistro at heart, with a dedicated team that manages to produce an amazing array of generous, beautifully seasoned meals at reasonable prices. No wonder the Westies love it.

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