Puro, Manukau Rd, Epsom

The hapuka fillet, with roasted capsicum, chutney, green onion, fennel and goats' cheese salad was superb. Picture / Carolyn Elliott

(Herald rating: * * * *)

Popular wisdom among people who eat out regularly is that the higher up you go the worse the food. It's as if restaurateurs believe the view will distract your palate and compensate for an often mediocre menu.

Puro in Epsom confirms this. There is no view - unless you consider Manukau Rd from the outside tables fascinatingly scenic - and it is at ground level. Accordingly, the food is superb.

Puro - one of the Cin Cin chain - has been open for only six weeks but its white tablecloth ambience, extensive wine list, and a menu that features a broad blend of Pacific and European styles should assure it a place in any serious diner's agenda.

We had been at the nearby Lido recently and noted the renovations in the building that once housed One Italy. When we learned it was to be a new and conveniently located restaurant we thought to check it out. It was quiet the night we arrived, but I don't expect it will be like that for long once word is out.

Let's get rid of the one minor quibble first: the staff have that odd habit of taking your wine bottle away (to allow for more room on the table perhaps). That said our attentive waitress never allowed a glass to even suggest it might be nearing empty. And that's the end of criticism.

The spacious restaurant - we were offered an outside table if we preferred - has a dark wood and schist stone theme, and also accommodates a fine-looking bar and an open kitchen with wood-fired oven.

The wine list was the first pleasant surprise: there were 26 local chardonnays, an extensive selection of other New Zealand whites, and dozens of European reds. It would be a rare customer who couldn't find at least a few to their taste.

The mains looked impressively diverse so we paced ourselves. My wife questioned the waitress about the entrees and was met with an informed opinion and, after judging my wife's interests, a suggestion. She was equally knowledgeable about the mains and complementary wines. She's a keeper.

I started with beef carpaccio with caper berries and anchovies ($15) and Megan settled for one of the five complimentary breads (which included ciabatta, foccacia and rosemary rye sourdough) and an oil and balsamic dip. Also on offer were eggplant in truffle oil, a selection of olives, herbed goats' cheese and mozzarella, ranging from $6.50 to $7.50.

Among the entrees were prosciutto with black fig chutney ($7), and a spicy prawn broth ($14 or $24), which sounds ideal for a return visit in winter.

The main courses each sounded more enticing than the other: a diverse selection of pastas (including one with veal), seared tuna, steaks and wood-fired rack of lamb with an artichoke and feta salad ($29).

Having not had lamb for a long time I went for that and Megan had the hapuka.

Both were exceptional - my lamb slightly seared but pink on the inside, her fish was fat and juicy - and because we were enjoying the atmosphere and our wine we ordered side salads of artichoke with eggplant and fennel, and potatoes to extend the evening.

By the time we saw the dessert menu - chocolate tart, panna cotta, sorbet, berry fruits and lemon tart - we were satisfied. There was also a broad selection of cheeses, ports and cognac.

Pretending it was cold outside I had a glass of Antinori grappa and Megan had a cappuccino. The perfect coda to an excellent dinner. The bill came to a reasonable $144, which included a fine bottle of Kim Crawford 2004 Riesling and mineral water.

Address: 380 Manukau Rd, Epsom

Ph: 638 3916

Chef: Executive chef is Keith McFee, house chef is Duncan Reynolds

From the menu: Seared yellowfin tuna with chorizo, soft egg and green beans ($15 or $24)

Wine list: Impressive in length and breadth, especially fine offering of local wines. Good selection by the glass.

Vegetarian: Available on request, the kitchen will accommodate tastes.

Bottom line: Manukau Rd near Alexandra Park might not be a place you'd expect to go for fine dining, but Puro, with plenty of off-street parking, should pull the discerning diner. A tip: don't expect to catch a quick bite before going to the Lido nearby, the menu will seduce you into staying the night.