Prime

By GRAHAM HEPBURN

"Well, if you can't beat 'em, join 'em," I thought as we approached the controversial PricewaterhouseCoopers Tower near the waterfront.

Like that champion of the people, property developer (oxymoron alert) Andrew Krukziener, who described the building as "an ugly mother of a cheap thing", I was aghast when Auckland City Council gave permission for this 34-storey glass skyscraper to be built without calling for objections. Although it seemed like a bureaucratic trampling of our rights, most of the city's residents just seemed to shrug it off - perhaps they think the Queen City is too far gone and they've given up caring, just like our councillors and planners.

But at least some good has come of it in the form of Prime, which has been open for weekday lunches for four months, but is expanding its repertoire to dinners (Wednesday to Friday) and brunch at the weekends starting from next Wednesday.

This bistro has a light and airy feel, with a smattering of low-key modern art and good views over the harbour, especially if you're seated in the smallish outdoor dining area. The staff are friendly and unobtrusive, and almost as polished as the restaurant's gleaming minimalist surfaces.

The pedigree of proprietors Chris Upton (Cafe Melba and O'Connell St Bistro) and Sean Armstrong (ex-
Michelin-starred Green House in London and O'Connell St Bistro) shows in the attention to detail which makes your meal a relaxed affair.

On the day we were there for lunch there was the conspicuously office-type crowd you'd expect, and if you're one of those time-poor people staff will give you priority (if you ask) so you can be quickly back at your desk - although Prime's delights should be enjoyed at a languid pace.

Jane opted to start with the soup of the day ($9.50), asparagus, which she pronounced velvety and intensely flavoured while I went for the antipasto platter with ciabatta ($17.50), which also changes daily, and was pleasantly surprised by the imagination and tastes on show: seared scallops, blue cheese, sardines, rollmops, duck rillettes, chicken terrine and pate.

Jane feigned alarm at the calorific content of her grilled sirloin with pommes frites, watercress and beer battered onion rings ($21.50) but it disappeared quickly, as did my oven roasted lamb rump ($22.50) swimming in Madeira jus with braised tomatoes and spring greens (snow peas, asparagus and bok choy cooked to perfection).

Strangely, Prime's next door espresso bar revels in an altogether bigger space and better views. It is also well worth a visit, if only to sit in the white leather seats that look hot off the set of a 1970s sci-fi movie.

Prime is a bit of a find and takes a little bit of finding as it's on the fourth level, which could be a good thing come the America's Cup mayhem on the waterfront. Now, if only we could get rid of the other 30-odd levels above it.

Open: Breakfast and lunch, Monday to Friday, 7am-7pm. Extended hours beginning next Wednesday.

Owners: Chris Upton and Sean Armstrong

Chef: Sean Armstrong

Food: NZ bistro

Smoking: Not in the main dining area while lunch is being served, but faggers can retreat to the bar or the deck.

Vegetarian: Limited selection on menu but other dishes available on request.

Wine: Reasonable wine list and a few by the glass.

Noise: Chatter and clatter

Cost (mains for two): Under $50

Bottom line: Stylish but casual dining with attentive staff. Bistro meals with a touch of elegance.