Praxis, Takapuna

Praxis restaurant in Hurstmere Road, Takapuna. Picture / Martin Sykes

The first time I became aware of Praxis on the site of an old Takapuna favourite, I was too frightened to go in. It was a Saturday night and the Hurstmere Rd eateries were all buzzing, except for Praxis, which was curiously, hauntingly empty.

Months later, a warm summer evening and a date at the Bruce Mason Centre next door lured me in for a pre-show meal and I was impressed enough to return this night in an official capacity.

Tonight, however, the first thing I noticed was the wide-screen TV at the side of the bar which gave me that horrible sinking feeling this could rapidly turn into a sports bar. The interior is otherwise chic and airy and shade sails have been suspended vertically to provide privacy between tables. I like that.

The menu offers an extensive range of meat, seafood and vegetable tapas, plus substantial main courses for the truly hungry, which I was.

So hungry that I uncharacteristically ordered bread and dips to begin — tapenade, hummus and olive oil with balsamic and had to wait an unacceptably long time for it to arrive, calmed only by a glass of Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc for me and one of the Tatachilla Keystone Shiraz for Jacquie.

She then opted for two tapas: the tempura prawns with mango and chilli jam — the prawns were suitably succulent — followed by the spicy skewered lamb with caramelised apple, an unusual but pleasing mix, she said.

I, in carnivorous mode, began with the chicken liver pate with onion jam — mouthwatering, although, I accept, hardly a test of the chef's expertise. I followed that with the grilled eye fillet wrapped in bacon, served on creamy white beans and a pinot reduction — more sauce than jus — with field mushrooms. Overall the combination of flavours and textures was pleasing.

When I described to the waiter what I wanted in a chardonnay to accompany this — oaky, not too oily — she sought advice higher up the ranks and returned with the perfect glass of Te Awa Farm Longlands chardonnay.

Dessert was beyond us, which might not have been true had our food arrived a little quicker and we hadn't succumbed to eating too much bread in the intervals.

But, I have to set Praxis in its context. Takapuna Beach, as they now like to call it, isn't overly blessed with fine-dining establishments. It's all fairly middle-of-the-road and Praxis is one of the better of them. And yes, with its bifold windows and doors wide open, it has that beachy feel. 

WHERE: Praxis, 1/138 Hurstmere Rd, Takapuna (09) 489 8008
OUR MEAL: $115 for three tapas and one main course; bread and dips and four glasses of wine.
OUR WINES: By the glass $9 to $20. By the bottle $30 to $130


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