Pores and flaws

Za Pore Smoother has a silky matte texture that absorbs oil. Photo / Babiche Martens

One of life's cruel twists is the sudden facial eruption - an embarrassment that isn't restricted to teenagers. Suddenly an enormous spot looms below the surface and you know it will be days, possibly weeks, before it disappears.

Poor diet, stress and failure to remove makeup can all lead to skin problems, so keep an eye on lifestyle factors because even people with clear skin can be plagued by occasional outbreaks.

Then there's hormonal spots, those giants which many women get once a month, usually reoccurring in the same area around the mouth or chin. These can persist until menopause, when skin texture changes, with pores sometimes becoming obvious.

Emergency measures are called for to counter these various conditions. For hormonal spots and pesky pimples, a spot concealer is a good place to start.

Don't just bung your under-eye concealer on the lump, especially not if it has become an open sore (leave well alone in the first place!!!)

Makeup can cake and make the spot more obvious, so look for something that will treat as well as disguise.

Today, we're focusing on products that alleviate rather than cure problems: anyone with serious skin issues should talk to their GP or head to a dermatologist.

Acne requires careful management: it can cause scarring and may need drugs and specialist treatments to get under control.

While it normally clears when hormones settle after adolescence, the fact that it is disfiguring during a crucial stage of development, means it shouldn't be written off as a passing stage.

Adult acne also plagues some people, and this is usually evidenced by blackheads and whiteheads rather than the more severe cystic pustules.

Blackheads and whiteheads are caused by pore blockage, so it's important to cleanse and exfoliate gently and regularly to deter the buildup of sebum.

Sebum helps moisturise skin and hair, but it can be overproduced, especially in adolescence and in those with oily skin, leading to the blockages known correctly as comedones. (A blackhead is an open comedone. The enlarged pore of the follicle is plugged with sebum and skin cells which oxidise to produce a dark blemish. Whiteheads are closed comedones. They too are blocked follicles, but without an opening they remain white lumps). Anyone troubled by comedones should seek out non-comedogenic skincare.

Water-based rather than oil-based makeup should be used. Pure mineral makeup is also suitable as it is less likely to irritate the skin and it also absorbs oil, but take care to check the ingredients, because "mineral" makeup laced with talc may just add to blockages.

Some products to try:

1. Estee Lauder Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher $126 and Idealist Dual Action Refinishing Treatment $118

A beauty industry spokeswoman for another brand swears by Idealist pore minimiser to keep her skin looking clear and refined. The non-acid refinisher works on darker visible pores with glucosamine to normalise skin turnover. Can be used with Idealist Dual-Action Refinishing Treatment (pictured), which has a warming action with mini-spheres to polish the surface and salicyclic acid. (From brand counters.)

2. Mario Badescu Drying Lotion $49

This is something of a cult product, coming from a renowned New York salon frequented by the stars. The glass dropper bottle contains soothing calamine, zinc oxide and salicylic acid to dab on erupted areas. Use overnight to dry up whiteheads and pimples and rinse off in the morning. Mario Badescu's Drying Cream ($38) with aloe is better for hormonal spots, helping to dry, heal and conceal and it can be worn alone or under makeup. (From Glamorpuss, Newmarket.)

3. L'Oreal Derma Genesis Pore Minimising Smoother $39.99

This micro-smoother is part of an anti-ageing range with hyaluronic acid. It refines and tighten pores and smoothes skin. Use daily with the Derma Genesis pore minimising serum and a moisturiser. (From brand counters and supermarkets.)

4. Za Pore Smoother $9.54

A lightweight balm that helps reduce the appearance of pores with a silky matte texture which absorbs oil. Use as a makeup base on troublesome areas or apply over foundation. It comes in a handy little tub. Za, a Japanese range targeted at the younger market, has good skincare products and probably the cheapest oil blotters you'll find, at $6 for a folder of 60 sheets. (From selected department stores and pharmacy displays.)

5. Dr Hauschka Pure Care Coverstick $39

Smelling nicely of tea tree oil and also containing manuka oil, this convenient stick is available in two tones and blends easily for good coverage. A host of botanical ingredients help the spot heal, while preventing dryness and deterring shine. (From selected department stores, pharmacies and health stores. Ph 0508 423 737.)

6. Jane Iredale Zap & Hide $69

This canister is ideal to carry around for touchups. It has a clear antiseptic and anti-inflammatory treatment at one end and a creamy concealer at the other. Available in light, medium and dark (deep enough to work on brown skin). Contains botanicals including organic tea tree leaf and lavender oil. (For salon stockists: Ph (09) 636-1966 or see janeiredale.co.nz.)

7. Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clearing Concealer $39

A tube of effective long-lasting concealer that also helps heal. Comes in three shades and an anti-redness green tint. Clinique has a whole Anti-Blemish range and says the four-step way to treat problem skin is to: exfoliate to unblock pores, fight blemish-creating agents with purifiers, control pore-plugging oil, and soothe irritation and red-looking skin. (From brand counters.)

8. Dermalogica Concealing Spot Treatment $52.90

One for the bathroom cupboard, this glass dropper of liquid tint conceals well and heals breakouts. Contains sulphur and zinc oxide to clear bacteria and oil and salicylic acid to slough out dead cells. Blend with a fingertip. (From Dermalogica, Westfield Albany and selected salons. Ph 0800 433 762 or dermalogica.co.nz.)

9. Lancome Pure Focus T-Zone $60

This is a control, rather than a treatment, product, but the instant mattifying gel is very handy for shine control on oily skin or the T-zone for those with combination complexions. It can also be used over makeup for retouching. The gel turns to a fine powder-like finish. (From brand counters.)

10. Modelco Skin Perfect Pore Minimiser $38

With anti-inflammatory properties, this can be used to smooth on troubled areas, or the whole T-zone. The small tube of product feels like a primer. (From brand displays.)