Pontoon, Auckland waterfront

Pontoon is quiet despite its wooden floors and acres of glass. Picture / Amos Chapple

Herald rating: * * *

When the girls started a shrill, slurring version of Swing Low Sweet Chariot we decided to quit the otherwise pleasant Bar 21 with the unglamorous view of a side street and head for Pontoon restaurant with its delicate white drapes and vista of gin palaces through the windows.

It's that time of year when lurching hordes from Christmas lunches set out to prove how entertaining and carefree they can be. I pity restaurant staff.

But the people at Pontoon - which services Bar 21, Seacow, the Paua Room and The Pier - seemed unruffled and, despite becoming increasingly busy, let us tarry over drinks just long enough for us to run headlong into that early evening skirmish with the young and hilarious.

Our night at Pontoon - formerly The Yacht Club in Westhaven - was very enjoyable and, despite wooden floors and acres of glass, which echo the sound of other diners back at you, it was remarkably quiet.

 

Although the menu favours fish, chicken and red meat are there.

I opened with seared scallops ($24) and was disappointed that they weren't what I call seared, just warmed through, but there were plenty of them.

Megan's zucchini flowers - slim pieces of zucchini inserted in lightly battered feta cheese-balls, drizzled with truffle oil, and a herb flavouring we thought was mild fennel ($18) - were superb.

We were in no hurry so lingered over our wines and our informative young waitress left us alone. She knew her stuff and was quick to explain the sizes of the servings and what we might expect on the plate.

Can't do better than that.

She was right about my salmon - it was a generous portion on a taste-filled bed of baby bok choy ($28) and unpretentiously terrific.

Pontoon also offers a flat-bread selection - in layman's terms, thin-based pizzas - and Megan's choice of the house special ($25) came with seared tuna, prawns, herbs and much other tastiness, and looked overwhelming. But it's surprising how much you can eat when the flavours are so good.

We also ordered sides of seasonal vegetables - asparagus with pine nuts ($6) - and a kumara mash ($6) which was the finest I have had.

You should never underestimate the skill in making a smooth mash and this one was creamy, light and delicious.

It might seem odd to extol something as simple as that, but Pontoon does these small things very well so you can be assured the more complex dishes will be as good.

When it was clear that we were still enjoying sitting and talking, our waitress told us that the table wasn't booked so we should feel free to stay as long as we wanted.

That was thoughtful, but at this time of year you also have to pace yourself so we passed on desserts and coffee.

Megan hadn't made her way through her main, so we asked if we could take it home. Pontoon was happy to oblige - it's that kind of place. Comfortable, casual and friendly, serving sound food with interesting subtle touches.

Address: Pier 21, Westhaven Drive

Ph 373 5776

Chef: Justin Rimmer

From the menu: If something as casual as a pizza appeals then go for those. They are large and the house special is a treat.

Wine list: Lengthy but only a few by the glass and those we tried were light and uninspiring.

Vegetarian: Prepared to order. But this is a harbourside restaurant and that means fish of many persuasions are its specialty.

Bottom line: When this was The Yacht Club it was conspicuously more upmarket. But now, as Pontoon, it has adopted a friendly local bar feel, put the menu more towards the Prego-pizza end, and is an affordable and enjoyable place with helpful and informed staff.