Pinot Noir: Red delicious

It's astounding to think that little over a decade ago we had more muller thurgau in the ground than pinot noir. What an impoverished place our vineyards would be had that situation persisted. And how unlikely the country would have attracted the rich array of international and local wine experts and buffs that gathered for Pinot Noir 2010 in Wellington last month to pay homage to what's arguably now our greatest grape.

"Sauvignon blanc is the curtain-raiser: pinot noir is the main act," said Australian wine critic Nick Stock who, like many of the speakers at the event, went on to heap praise on our pinots.

"New Zealand pinot noir has varietal high fidelity. They're pinot electrified: super fruity and packed with flavour."

Managing to be simultaneously sexy and serious, pinot noir has a tendency to inspire superlatives. But that these are increasingly being directed at our fledgling examples by authorities from both near and far is something to be proud of.

Along with a huge expansion of pinot in our vineyards, which is now only second to sauvignon in the area planted, has come a remarkable leap in quality over a relatively short period of time. When tasted alongside great international examples, as they have been at this event and at others, New Zealand pinot noirs can now certainly hold their own.

They're also developing their own distinctive style built on soft and sensually sweet fruit and immediate appeal. And unlike those from Burgundy, from where the world's greatest pinot noirs hail, a number of speakers noted that ours offer far more consistent quality.

Current vintage variability from Burgundy could allow Kiwi pinot to gain a stronger foothold in world markets, according to British wine columnist Matthew Jukes. "The 2007 vintage for reds in Burgundy was pretty lean and mean. The 2008s have just been released and they're not serious wines. Then you've got another 12 months before the 2009s come out, which are going to be quite good by all accounts." Jukes said this situation offered New Zealand a period of grace in which to work "to own the pinot market in the whole world".

Regional differences are also starting to become more apparent in pinot production, between the supple and exuberantly fruited examples of Central Otago to the more structured expressions from the variety's local pioneer, Martinborough. Marlborough's midweight examples are gaining gravitas now that plantings of the variety have migrated from sauvignon territory to more suitable sites, while Waipara and Nelson are just starting to carve out their own stylistic niches.

Pinot noir is a variety that can age excitingly, with the fruits and flowers of its youth transforming over time into something seductively spicy, gamey and reminiscent of a fragrant forest floor. When it comes to the wines that achieve this with the most grace, Burgundy is still unbeaten. Its pinots may not be as accessible as our examples are on release, but many age magnificently.

The same cannot yet be said for all of ours, as highlighted by a tasting of New Zealand pinots from the 2003 vintage. Though some were still hanging in there, most would have been far better drunk some years earlier, and a few were downright dried out and unappealing.

Felton Road's Blair Walter, who chaired this particular session - and who along with the likes of Martinborough Vineyard, Dry River and Ata Rangi makes some of the pinots that are ageing well - expressed his reticence in showing these older wines due to progress that's been made in recent years.

These advances were clearly illustrated in tastings of the impressive 2007 vintage, and in particular the line-up of New Zealand sustainable, organic and biodynamic pinots, which really stole the show. As a variety with the potential to offer such a pure expression of the place in which it's grown, cultivating it without chemical interference seems to make total sense.

That some of our best pinot noirs are the fruits of a more natural approach to winegrowing is proof of its appropriateness.

It's an exciting time for pinot noir in New Zealand and by the next Pinot Noir event, scheduled for 2013, we can expect our best to be scaling even loftier heights.

Just as long as this very special variety doesn't become commodified in the same way as some of our sauvignon blancs. Great pinot is made from great sites by passionate people, and rarely shines when churned out to satisfy the mass market.

Speaking at the gala dinner that closed the Pinot Noir 2010 event, British wine commentator Oz Clarke warned New Zealand's wine industry not to flood the market with cut-price pinot. "Pinot noir has found its natural home here: you're the master of your pinot noir," he said. "This next decade should be your decade to cement your position at the top of the wine world. And for the sake of New Zealand's reputation, you must strive ever harder to be the best that you can be."

Six of the best

Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Canterbury Pinot Noir 2007 $75

Location was at the forefront of Mike Weersing's mind when he set out to find the perfect spot to plant his pinot noir. He found it in the limestone-rich and virtually uncharted territory of North Canterbury's Pyramid Valley near Waikari, and this, the second release from Pyramid Valley's biodynamic home vineyard, confirms it is indeed a special site. Savoury with fragrant nuances of autumnal leaves and wild strawberries, Earth Smoke is a delicate gossamer-textured wine propelled by an exhilarating fusion of earth and mineral, with a refreshingly light alcohol level of just 11.8 per cent. (Extremely limited stocks available from www.pyramidvalley.co.nz)

Valli Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2008 $55

One of the newest and most exciting regions for pinot noir, is the Waitaki Valley in North Otago. Although its ultra-cool climate makes growing grapes here a somewhat risky business, when the year is good its pinots can really sing, like this exquisite and silky example made by Waitaki-born winemaker Grant Taylor. Tangy raspberry and red cherry fruit is underpinned by the complex savoury, spicy and minerally undertones and fine tannins that seem to be a feature in many of the pinot noirs made from the region. (From Kemp Rare Wines, Herne Bay Cellars, Glengarry Victoria Park & Westmere, Liquorland Albany, Waiheke Wine Centre.)

Anne Gros Bourgogne Rouge 2007 $62

Burgundy is the heartland of pinot noir and home to the world's benchmark examples, the best of which feel just as fantastic in the mouth as they taste. Those made by Anne Gros always seem particularly silken, with supple and pure red cherry and berry fruits and gentle spice slipping satin like across the palate. This is much more than your average bourgogne rouge and a lovely example from a somewhat challenging vintage. (From Glengarry.)

Rippon Emma's Block Mature Vine Lake Wanaka Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 $82

An exciting new pinot from the pioneering Central Otago estate that planted its first vines back in 1982 on the picturesque banks of Lake Wanaka. As of the 2008 vintage, Rippon has separated out two distinctive parcels within the biodynamically managed estate, the east facing one of which is Emma's Block. It's an elegant wine with an understated power to its palate that's chiselled by an edgy acidity and flinty minerality supported by beguiling cherry and raspberry fruit, florals and exotic peppery spice. (From www.rippon.co.nz)

Greenhough Hope Vineyard Nelson Pinot Noir 2007 $45

A seductively smoky pinot from Nelson, whose top pinots show that it's a region with real potential for the variety. This one from Greenhough has brooding dark cherry and plum fruit overlaid with spicy, charry notes lifted by a bright acidity that runs through the palate. (From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Wine and More, Caro's, Scenic Cellars.)

Schubert Block B Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2008 $60

A fabulously floral pinot noir from Schubert's block in the Wairarapa that's planted with French clones. Pretty and silky, there are roses and carnations to the fore, over sweet ripe red fruit and notes of spice wrapped around a persistent mineral core. (From Artisan Fine Wine Suppliers.)

AN AFFORDABLE FOURSOME

Main Divide Canterbury Pinot Noir 2008 $24.95

Pegasus Bay is the family-run Waipara winery behind some of the country's greatest pinot noirs and some of the best value through their lower priced Main Divide Range. This one has been given the Burgundian treatment with hand selection, wild ferments and barrique ageing. The result is a ripe and robust pinot, with generous spiced mulberry fruit, dark chocolatey notes, lively acid and a velvety texture. (Stockists include Glengarry, Mairangi Bay Fine Wines, Liquor King Napier.)

Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009 $32

Vintage after vintage, this prime Martinborough estate overdelivers with its impressive second label pinot. The latest Te Tera, which gains added complexity by harnessing indigenous yeasts, has attractive soft midweight plummy fruit, overlaid with roasted spice and perfumed with violet. (From Glengarry, Liquor King, Caro's and other fine wine retailers.)

Boundary Vineyards Kings Road Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 $23.99

There's more fruit than in most pinots at this price in this wine from the Pernod Ricard stable - the company that makes the most pinot noir in the country and is also one of the largest premium pinot producers in the world. This Waipara pinot is full of dense and smooth dark berry and briar fruit with a hint of spice and a dusting of gentle tannins. (From selected grocery outlets and wine retailers.)

Delta Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 $25

Delta Vineyard is a venture between UK-based Master of Wine David Gleave and Marlborough winemaker Matt Thomson, who makes the wines of Saint Clair among others. The pair bought this site in 2000 to make top quality pinot noir, with its entry-level example offering elegance at an extremely competitive price. It's light and savoury with tangy cherry fruit and a hint of game. (Stockists include Fine Wine Delivery Company, Caro's, First Glass.)