Orvieto, Three Kings

By PHOEBE FALCONER for canvas


It was the tables out front that did it. When Auckland is hot and muggy, as it frequently is, shade is a must for the fair-skinned among us.

Orvieto is light and airy, white and timber, and open to the street. It faces northeast, so the tables on the pavement are in the shade for most of the summer. The menu is comprehensive, with all the usual suspects for breakfast, brunch and lunch, except for corn fritters, I'm happy to report.

Julie went for the Eggs Benedict with salmon, ($14.50) because she'd had salmon there before and said it was fabulous, slightly crisp outside and moist inside. And it was, because I ate what she left.

Andrew pronounced himself ravenous, but even he couldn't finish the Orvieto Power Breakfast ($13.50). The sausage was "seriously grouse", and the bacon, hash browns, tomatoes, eggs and baked beans met with his critical approval. His first long black coffee was adequate but a bit watery, but the standard improved with the second cup. Maybe they heard him.

My hash browns ($13.50) were perfect, like birds' nests, crunchy and wonderful. Julie stole some (well, isn't that what eating with friends is all about?) and said they were just like her mother used to make. No higher praise. The bacon was fine too, but the tomatoes were a little overdone. Or maybe it's because I don't like cooked tomatoes. Whichever. The portions were so generous that the accompanying toast was redundant.

The deli counter at Orvieto is sensibly placed to keep customers occupied while they wait to pay. Not a long wait, mind you. And the cake counter on the other side reminds you not to be so greedy with others' leftovers next time, so that there is room for chocolate mud cake or caramel cake or marbled chocolate cheesecake or ...

Orvieto is good. Go there at once.

* * *

Ambience: Casual

Service: Friendly and prompt

Parking: Behind the cafe, off Duke St

Hours: 7am to 3pm, seven days

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.