Older designers prove edge over new generation

PARIS - Valentino, 74, and Karl Lagerfeld, 68, rolled out slick ready-to-wear collections today, proving they are still able to set trends in an industry brimming with designers half their age.

Germany's Lagerfeld, who is presenting clothes for his Karl Lagerfeld collection as well as fashion house Chanel this week, said he did not feel tired at all.

"It's stimulating me," Lagerfeld said after his show, in which models strutted out in high-waisted skirts and sleek tight shirts with prominent black buttons or tie-like lapels.

The white-haired designer with his trademark ponytail said it did not bother him that a new generation of designers had taken over many Paris catwalks, exciting well-heeled customers.

Nicolas Ghesquiere, 35, has won much applause for his work at Balenciaga. Olivier Theyskens, 29, will start designing for Nina Ricci after winning praise at Rochas, and Riccardo Tisci, 31, is to present his new line for Givenchy later today.

"I think I have survived the others well," Lagerfeld said. "And the new generation, I like them very much. I think it's a great generation, like there hasn't been for a long time."

Lagerfeld brought out models wearing white mini dresses and tights embroidered with large flowers, while other girls presented short jackets and large waist-high leather belts.

Italy's Valentino showed no signs of fatigue either, presenting a glamorous selection of his trademark full-length, red evening dresses. Other models paraded out in sparkling short jackets, carrying oversize square handbags.

"A new vision of effortless luxury has come of age," said Valentino, who has dressed Hollywood stars ranging from Sophia Loren to Gwyneth Paltrow and who is known for making luxurious daywear for ladies-who-lunch.

"This unforced appeal sets the tone for a silhouette that is fresh and extremely chic," Valentino said in a statement."

Although Valentino's retirement seemed nowhere near, analysts said that taking over from a legendary creator like him would pose a huge challenge to any young designer.

Pierre-Francois Le Louet from trend consultancy Nelly Rodi said designer Tom Ford's success in turning around Gucci in the 1990s proved that successions in big houses could work.

"It's possible. But it doesn't always work," he said. "It's hard to find someone who at same time has respect of a house's history and a contemporary vision of things, and who is capable of pushing the house into the future."

Glenda Bailey, editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar, said Valentino had given a wealth of education to many designers.

"I don't think this is ever going to change," she said at the show. "He does a great job and he's such a vital part of our industry. I would like him to stay on as long as possible."

Belgian designer Dries van Noten, born in 1958, presented a range of warm colours and soft shapes in his ready-to-wear collection on Wednesday, with models wearing wide knee-length coats, A-line dresses and long floating skirts.

One model walked out in a pink and white checkered dress, worn over a green hooded jacket held tight at the waist.

- REUTERS