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Home / Lifestyle

Oh so pretty

By Zoe Walker
Associate editor, Viva·NZ Herald·
27 Jan, 2010 03:00 PM3 mins to read

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I feel pretty... grumpy. Leather, studs, ripped denim, skinny jeans, body con and big shoulders have all been fashion's look of choice for what seems like forever, thanks in large part to Balmain's Christophe Decarnin.

All the complete opposite of my girly style - pastels, pinks, dresses, florals, bows.
Certainly not hip or trendy, but I didn't care: I was happy that my "look" was mine, not worn by every model/blogger/slashie around town.

But what's this? Balmainia has come to an end and designers are turning their back on the hard-edged feel of the past few seasons. Now they are encroaching on my look: now they are into pretty.

Marc Jacobs told Style.com after showcasing his weirdly pretty collection in New York in September that the ubiquitous leather 'n' studs look is, "not such an individual expression".

"If last season was a trip back in time to the 80s, this [new collection] was a trip to the theatre, the ballet, the opera".

That collection is full of pastel shades, long, full skirts, and plenty of flouncy ruffles - a girly prerequisite that's appeared elsewhere from Stella McCartney to Valentino to Chloe.

Delicate fabrics of lace and chiffon, as well as subtle pastel shades akin to candy are key to this new pretty, seen at Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein and Louise Goldin.

Viktor & Rolf took pastel flounce to the extreme, with pink, mint, baby blue and lilac tulle gowns that they hacked at with a chainsaw, creating holes and cutouts for pretty surrealist type dresses that we wish someone would have the balls to wear on the Oscar red carpet (it won't happen).

Lolita's Dolores Haze's influence over the runways was obvious this season; at Miu Miu in the form of high-waisted animal printed skirts, more pastels, sharp collars and models with naifish side plaits. Miuccia Prada referenced it with her mainline Prada collection too, with pigtailed models in shiny red lipstick.

British designer Christopher Kane's most recent collection was inspired by the film adaptation, with enough gingham to keep a roadside diner in tablecloths for a year. But clever cut-outs, thigh-high splits and tailored pieces keep it from being too pretty, innocent and tablecloth like.

That's the key to wearing this new pretty: keep it adult. More womanly than girly.

Local designers have been bitten by the pretty bug too. Kate Sylvester's gorgeous blush pink petal detail dress, which comes in maxi and mini versions, looks akin to candyfloss, and Lonely Hearts' stand-out winter collection features several Sunday best-type dresses in pretty pastel shades (there are still plenty of black options for those with a darker bent).

Nom*d have even lightened up, with the "Turncoats" collection that draws on the idea of the journey from childlike innocence to adult experience. Think pinafores, bib detailing and reworked shirting in virginal white, all with Nom*d's signature darker undertones.

But perhaps the best example of pure, unashamed girlishness comes from British designer Luella, with a collection of pretty pastel skirt suits, polka dots and 1950s inspired full dresses with heart cut-outs and bow detailing. But like the most prim and proper of ladies, you can look but you can't touch: the collection will, unfortunately, never be produced.

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