NZ Fashion Week beauty: It's not just about the frocks

Rick-racking for big, teased hair. Photo / Supplied

Hair and makeup are also in the spotlight at Fashion Week.

Fashion weeks around the globe are testing grounds for beauty looks. It's where those crazes for green or grey nails emanate, or why suddenly plaits or teased hair pop up in magazines as trends to emulate. They're also the arena for eye-catching images, sometimes more freakish than fetching, but supremely good theatre in conveying ideas in exaggerated visual form.

Makeup artists and hair stylists test new products under tough conditions backstage, with the resultant runway shots used to promote them for months afterwards. From the glamorous couture looks at the likes of Chanel and Dior, through more accessible ready-to-wear styling there's myriad images generated, so if you don't fancy - or can't afford - the frocks, check out whether you want to try the new look in fluttery lashes, beetle brows or some creative curling for on-trend style inspiration.

Already there's a buzz forming about some of next week's Auckland shows, with World's Friday night extravaganza taking in the live television final of New Zealand's Next Top Model and Kathryn Wilson opening up her show to the public for a look at how she turns a shoe collection into a top-to-toe statement.

Big teams from M.A.C (see next page) and Stephen Marr will be in action again, as will Smashbox, Servilles, Ryder's Greg Murrell, plus individual designer favourites, but this year there is a broader range of stylists, including teams from Buoy in Wellington and Dharma in Auckland, the KMS California hair company and the return of ghd's creative team, plus Luana Coscia for Joico and Fudge from Australia.

Beauty brands range from Bobbi Brown to the Body Shop with nails the new area of attention, so look out for customised claws at a host of shows, with the team from Magic Tan & Beauty busy on 12 shows.

We've asked a few of those in action next week to share their expertise, picking next winter's trends and, in some cases, offering a runway reveal, plus we summarise directions internationally.

(Next week look out for Viva's pick of the best summer makeup shades and profiles of some of those working at Fashion Week.)

HAIR AND THERE

Ponytails and chignons are slick and stylish perennials, but show hair is getting more adventurous. Guido for Redken is a dominant creative consultant for a roll call of top international designers and his 2011 autumn-winter runway hair trends forecast pretty much covers the bases. He picks Miss Sixties (chic, groomed looks which we saw a little of last year), Strictly Speaking (polished, tough glam), About a Boy (androgynous, edgy elfins) and Girl Power (feminine, contemporary styles) as the key looks. Throw in some 70s volume for good measure and there's next season summarised.

Locally, Servilles Newmarket stylists Olivia Noble and Caleb Alex say playful looks at opposite ends of the technical spectrum stand out: Glamorous straighter hair, partnered with braids for a bit of boho (as will be seen in their Designer Selection shows), and a more teased out, full look, with textured curls and wispy edges or futuristic updos, some with spray-paint like colour to modernise a classic French roll.

Lauren Gunn, creative director at Stephen Marr says hair will be unfussy and modern.

"If there's a retro influence it will be 1960s but very subtle; low side parts, a little height at the crown, heavy eyeliner, pale lips. I would keep an eye out for new incarnations of the ponytail and enhanced natural texture. We'll also be bringing back some traditional hair accessories that are worth paying attention to."

She tries to avoid shows becoming too thematic, meaning where there is lots of texture and colour in clothes, hair will be pared back. "This is a pretty safe rule to follow when you're getting dressed in the morning," she says.

Having already seen many of the winter fashion collections, she knows they are highly polished and demure.

"So far hair is very feminine, even a little posh, which I think comes from an Anglophile undercurrent that is a global trend." Watch out for plenty of pants, accents of leather and a refreshing dose of tartan - all very British what!

Collars are buttoned up and necklines are high which means updos galore. "We should be getting good at this now as we've had lots of practice with topknots in 2009, bouffants in 2010 and now ponytails for 2011."

Gunn says there will be no excuses for run-of-the-mill ponies at Fashion Week, however, with Juliette Hogan showing more of her signature ladylike style, Zambesi going all sporty on it and Salasai referencing the 17th century.

Her product pick for Fashion Week is "a wheelbarrow of Wella Ocean Spray - it's such a wonderful styling tool, giving guts to fine hair with a finished result of natural, pretty texture. From there you can work up any style."

FACE THE FACE

New Zealanders love their black, especially in winter, so handily this tough look is well referenced internationally in makeup trends. (Expect to see Salasai take it to the extreme next week.) The other look is barely there beauty, but that's not nearly as exciting.

M.A.C's senior artist Amber D says her team will be using mascaras loaded with carbon pigment on super-curled lashes for a modern 60s look. The blackest of black eye shadows will blend around the eyes and layer over black paints and eyeliners, which in turn will be smudged into the lash line for a lived-in feel. It's heavy on the eye, but counterbalanced by flawless skin that is prepped and primed to perfection. (Key products include M.A.C Opulash Mascara, Smolder eye kohl and Blacktrack Fluidline.)

"These ultra beauty looks from the shows will absolutely translate off the catwalk as well," she says.

Smashbox is also putting effort into priming skin to dewy perfection, using long-wear foundation and perfecting powder to finish the various looks.

At Sabatini White expect a deep blackberry lip and at Neverblack it's romantic and whimsical with a touch of grunge, with an easy-to-wear mix of a natural satiny matt lip and eyes in tarnished bronze tones. (Her must-haves for the week include: Smashbox Studio Skin 15-hour wear foundation, Photo Finish Foundation Primer clear, Brow tech powder and Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder.)

SHOWSTOPPERS

Kathryn Wilson
Danny Pato from D&M is doing the hair and says: "We came up with the concept after a couple of wines, watching iconic movies and thinking about sexy, glamorous women who've just rolled out of bed. The hair is going to be voluminous and wavy, with a lot of movement."

Wilson says she wanted a strong powerful look (last year she, Pato and M.A.C collaborated on glamazons with conical ponytails and patent red lips). "The winter 2012 collection of footwear is textured, panelled and rich in colours, we wanted to show similar shades in the eyes and reference the 90s era of power dressing." Detail includes the nails, with a palette of burnished jewel colours chosen.

World
With a show called Good vs Evil expect drama. Previous outings from World have seen models made-up in Swarovski crystals and geisha-like hair. Denise L'Estrange-Corbet says this is the label's boldest collection to date, matched with strong cosmetic colour and sculptural hair this time made "spectacularly inspirational", using lacquer and ghds for control, with a "strong mix of the 40s meets Bladerunner aesthetic." Harold Samu from Valonz salon in Sydney is again overseeing production. A decade-long makeup partnership continues with Shiseido, which has strong eye shades at the ready, with creative artist James Leuii working with Hiro Nemoto on creating a look with a "touch of Queen Naboo".

Annah Stretton
"Living Dolls is our inspiration, we are going to create beautiful intricate porcelain living dolls," says makeup artist Phoenix Renata, whose team will pick out each model's best features to create a doll-like version of themselves, using a fresh-faced look, with a mix of matte shadows on the eyes and lashes applied top and bottom for a playful finish.

Blak
"I love the hair texture and wrapped, knotted half up/half down 'turban-esque' feel of this look," says Luana Coscia, Joico hair director for Blak, and a top Australian stylist. "It works works so well with the collection, which is based around the Grimm Brothers' fairy tales - supernatural, romantic, spooky, whimsical."

Achieve it with a texture spray (she used Joico Design Collection) and some light teasing for extra volume. Finish with gloss spray.

Starfish
In keeping with the label's eco-consciousness, hair by Sara Allsop of Dharma uses Pureology products. "It is all about texture and movement ...matted crowns to give a dishevelled silhouette, using the texture in the hair to capture the light and have movement when walking on the catwalk - we love flyaways," says Allsop. Makeup by The Body Shop is, like the collection, inspired by the beauty of the night sky and uses mineral makeup and fair-trade sourced ingredients.

Ruby
Expect "super modern" hair from Dharma's Sara Allsop directing the show as guest artist for ghd. She has come up with "something really youthful; tousled up for a bit for fun. The key look is a soft, loose, unstructured ponytail with texture and noise to finish the exterior."

Twenty-seven Names
For the first off-site show by Rachel Easting and Anjali Stewart, which references counter culture and is called "Take Cover", Servilles' Takapuna stylist Emma Ecott has created a free-flowing look with a hint of soft texture. Hair will be in loose waves or a messy ponytail.