As I sit writing this, a biting cold wind is blasting in from Antarctica, bringing flurries of pale yellow snow clouds to the sky. It's freezing out there but, strangely, it no longer feels like winter. As spring unfolds into light-filled days, it's as if a cog has rolled over, not just on the landscape but on my senses. The idea of soups and rib-sticking stews no longer has any appeal, right now I want food that's light and fresh, food that says "spring is here".
The problem is that at this time of year there's always a bit of lag between what I feel like eating and what's available in my garden. Down here in Wānaka, the winter leeks and beets are still hanging in there, though very soon they will start to go to seed. The onions and garlic are starting to sprout, as are the potatoes, and the pumpkin harvest is long gone. Not only are winter pickings looking very lean, it will be weeks before the spring seeds I've planted are ready to harvest.
Thankfully, bok choy comes to the rescue. This quick-growing green, with its crunchy stems and tender spade-shaped green leaves is at its best right through spring (in summer, like coriander, cress and rocket, it gets bitter and bolts). Bok choy's fresh, slightly spicy flavour takes a nod towards the Asian kitchen and those lighter, fresher tastes that our appetites crave right now.
Around this time of year, I often use Asian flavours to segue my cooking into the new spring season. By drawing from a raft of Asian sauces like soy, black bean, oyster or fish sauce and teaming them with aromatics like ginger, star anise, garlic, spring onions, lemongrass and kaffir, I can create dishes that pack a punch of flavour without being heavy or wintery.
When life's on the run I'll often make a simple Asian-style noodle bowl for our dinner, sauteeing ginger and garlic, adding mushrooms and, once they have released all their liquid, adding a good spoon of miso and lots of stock (about 2 cups per person). This simmers for a few minutes then I add sliced chicken (or tofu or leftover cooked pork from the recipe below).
At the very end, once everything is cooked and just before serving, I add in a big pile of chopped bok choy, some spring onions and coriander. In less than a minute it's ready to serve: an easy-to-prepare meal that's deliciously light, incredibly satisfying and sings of spring.
When you've got friends coming over, here's a simple Asian-inspired spring menu to enjoy.
Fragrant tender pork belly
Even if there's just two of us I'll always cook a big piece of pork like this, as it takes such a long time to cook and once made can be put to so many great uses. It's delicious in soft or bao buns and Vietnamese-style banh mi as well as stir-fries and soups. Keeps in the fridge for about 5 days and also freezes well.
Ready in about 3½ hours
Serves 8
4 stalks lemongrass, bruised with the back of a knife (or 2 Tbsp chopped)
1.8kg boneless pork belly, skin scored
Salt to season
4 cm piece ginger, very thinly sliced
3 whole star anise
2 Tbsp runny honey
2 Tbsp fish sauce
1 litre coconut water
2 Tbsp rice vinegar
Preheat oven to 200C. Place lemongrass in the base of a metal roasting dish that fits the pork snugly. Place pork on top, skin side up. Rub salt into the pork skin. Scatter ginger and star anise around pork.
In a bowl, mix honey with fish sauce until dissolved and then stir in coconut water and rice vinegar. Pour enough of this liquid to come to just below the pork skin, making sure you don't get the skin wet. Reserve leftover liquid.
Roast pork in oven for 40 minutes then reduce heat to 150C and continue cooking for 2½ hours. Increase heat to 220C, replenish liquid ensuring it doesn't go over the skin, and roast until skin crackles, about 25 minutes. Lift pork out of the dish, strain the juices, skim off fat from the top and serve in a jug. Slice pork to serve and accompany with rice and greens.
Bok choy with oyster sauce
Because of its high water content, bok choy takes only a very short time to cook and needs to be cooked just before you serve it. I allow one head of the smaller green-stemmed Shanghai bok choy per serving.
Ready in 10 mins
Serves 8
8 whole Shanghai bok choy
2-3 Tbsp oyster sauce
Trim the bok choy bases where the leaves join together and separate the leaves. Wash well. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Just prior to serving, drop the leaves into the boiling water stir to submerge and cook until just wilted (40-60 seconds). Transfer to a serving plate with a slotted spoon or cooking tongs, shaking off excess water. Drizzle with oyster sauce. Serve at once.
Fried banana wontons
These crunchy wonton pastries with a lightly spiced sweet banana filling are a bit of a fiddle to make but are incredibly moreish.
Ready in 30 minutes
Serves 8
2 large, ripe bananas
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 cup toasted thread coconut
1 Tbsp lime juice
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp cinnamon
16 square wonton wrappers
1 egg, lightly beaten
Neutral oil to deep-fry
Icing sugar to dust
To serve (optional)
Vanilla icecream
Caramel sauce
Peel and dice bananas into 1cm pieces. Place in a bowl with sugar, coconut, lime juice, ginger and cinnamon. Mix to combine.
Place wonton wrappers on a clean board and top each with 1 Tbsp of filling. Brush beaten egg around edges of wrappers, draw up the four corners into a parcel and pinch sides to seal. Place prepared wontons on a tray lined with baking paper. Wontons can be prepared to this point several hours in advance.
To cook, heat 4cm oil in a pot to 180C and fry wontons a few at a time until golden, about 2-3 minutes per batch. Lift out of oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Transfer to a serving platter and dust with icing sugar. If desired, accompany with icecream and a caramel sauce.
These are best served freshly cooked or within an hour so they stay nice and crisp.