Wellness gurus have extolled its benefits, but there's no science that supports their claims.

In May 2018, Perelandra, a natural foods store and juice bar in Brooklyn Heights, sold 316kg of celery; in May 2019, it sold 564kg of it, according to Roland Auer, the store's co-owner. He's seen these patterns before.

"A couple years ago, cilantro shot up in popularity like this," he said. "Last summer, it was turmeric."

Produce crazes often occur in the wake of medical reports that extol a certain vegetable's health benefits. Sometimes the cause is something more scientifically nebulous, such as a citation in

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