COOP is a new label to come from the Trelise Cooper workroom, although Cooper is not the designer - Lauren Connolly and Alexandra Dunn are the faces behind the label, which made its NZFW debut this morning.

Titled Smash Palace, the collection was a youthful take on recent trends, with a street, almost bogan feel - lots of black, leather, short hemlines and cut out detail.

All that black was interspersed with shots of colour and print - a turquoise cropped leather jacket, a digital crystalline print dress, and another an abstract mineral/gemstone print.

Does all that leather and sheerness sit with where fashion is now, which is largely simple, elegant and womanly? Not exactly, but this label and collection will go down well with Sass and Bide loving girls who are partial to a bit of leather and sexiness, despite the whims of fashion.

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The best pieces in the range tended to offer something softer: cute knit sweaters with zigzag prints, a simple floor length black t-shirt dress that laced up the back, a sweet short suede dress and a beautiful boxy jacket with shades of grey.

OUR ONE-WORD REVIEW: Dark.