Establishing your style is a key starting point. Photo / 123RF
Fashion editor and personal stylist to London’s great and good, Fiona Rubie shares her secret formula to an effortless capsule wardrobe.
Why do so many of us struggle every morning choosing what to wear? And how come wardrobe storage solutions have more than 33 million views on TikTok, and yet most of us are still flummoxed by overflowing cupboards?
No wonder many of us fantasise about emptying our closets and starting all over again.
Of course, that’s not a practical or financially viable option for most of us, but I have a secret weapon in my arsenal: fashion editor and personal stylist Fiona Rubie. Her speciality is finessing the wardrobes of London’s great and good. Non-disclosure agreements and discretion forbid me to say exactly who she currently dresses, but, suffice to say, she was rather busy in the run-up to the Coronation.
Fiona and I met in the fashion cupboard at Harper’s Bazaar, where we both worked in the 1990s. As fashion editor, she was styling the likes of Claudia Schiffer and Madonna on cover shoots with David Bailey, Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier.
At every key stage in my life, Fiona has been on hand with a glass of gavi di gavi and the most brilliant wardrobe advice (and armfuls of hand-me-downs).
From my honeymoon to post-natal (when she arrived at my flat 18 years ago with bags full of Juicy Couture tracksuit bottoms and cashmere tops), to advice on what to wear to christenings, weddings, funerals and, most recently, my 50th birthday in Italy, where she found me a killer silk dress and the most flattering swimsuit (from Reina Olga) I’ve ever owned.
Fiona’s style is a combination of pared-back French-girl chic with a little bit of luxe-boho (she loves a basket bag and a Chanel ballet flat). But, more importantly, it’s ageless and looks effortless. Her style icons are Jane Birkin, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Kate Moss and Diana, Princess of Wales.
As well as answering the crucial does-my-bum-look-big-in-this questions, Fiona makes fashion and getting dressed fun. So, how does she do it with such apparent ease? Is there a formula for replicating Fiona’s fashion nous?
“Yes, there most certainly is,” she laughs, “but, let me tell you, it’s not effortless. It’s all about planning your outfits to avoid that morning wardrobe paralysis. The aim is to make getting dressed a delight more than a chore.”
1. It’s all about the edit
You must streamline. Once you’ve established your style, whatever it is – ageless boho, sexy siren, Tanya from The White Lotus, all of the above? – only keep things in your wardrobe that fit this category and work well together. So, if you love blouses, for example, make sure you know exactly which trousers or skirt each blouse will go with. If there’s nothing it goes with, I’m afraid it has to go, as it will just sit in the twilight zone of your wardrobe.
With my clients, I always go through their “hall of fame” hero outfits – tops, bottoms and shoes that look fabulous together – so you know that you have these no-brainer ensembles you can always rely on. And if you haven’t worn anything for more than two years, that has to go, too, I’m afraid.
2. Colour code
I like to keep the colours classic – camel, blues, creams and denim, but with a pop of red for pizzazz. Keeping it to one palette means everything works well together – and adding something like a cherry-red ballet flat, for example, will suddenly lift an outfit from boring to stylish. Also, don’t be afraid of tonal dressing – keeping an entire outfit pale blue or white, for example (including the shoes), can make it look expensive. I loathe purples and electric blues – they can so often end up looking cheap.
3. Spend and save in all the right places
If you can, spend on handbags and shoes, as they will elevate whatever you are wearing and make you look more polished. The Princess of Wales does this time after time, mixing a high-street dress with her favourite Gianvito Rossi court shoes. Like trompe-l’oeil, it’s all a trick of the eye. Dior’s kitten-heel slingback can elevate so many different outfits.
4. Out of sight, out of mind
When you open your wardrobe, you need to see everything; all must be on view. We’ve changed since the pandemic and it’s more about ease now. I don’t use dust bags anymore to store clients’ handbags, as they need to be instantly on view. The same with shoes: keep the four or five pairs you wear each season out of boxes, so you can see and grab. The same goes for costume jewellery. Amazon does brilliant display trays that you place in a drawer, so you can see all your earrings, necklaces and bracelets.
1. The perfect blazer
Whether it’s a Chanel-type tweedy crop, fitted velvet or an oversized boyfriend blazer, there’s a perfect jacket for everyone. A good blazer will bring instant polish to any outfit, whether silk dress or jeans.
2. The jeans
Find the best shape for you and have a white pair for summer. Buy two pairs: one cut to the length for heels and the other for flats. You’ll never find trousers that you love as much as your favourite jeans.
3. The men’s shirt
This always reminds me of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. Be fussy about the sizing here, though. It’s fine to shop in men’s departments for a cotton shirt, but don’t be tempted to go too oversized, particularly if you’re petite. It should fit across the shoulders and not swamp you.
4. The Breton striped top
Stripes are an essential wardrobe classic, as they can be casual or elevated with jewellery. As well as navy, I love a burgundy stripe, with red or burgundy shoes, and jeans.
5. The trench
There are so many variations to choose from here (rounded collars, deconstructed shapes), but I think classic is the classiest. And try to find one that is waterproof.
6. The broderie anglaise blouse
I cannot stress enough how flattering and illuminating on the skin a beautiful, fresh white broderie anglaise blouse is.
7. The wedge sandal
These sandals are leg-lengthening and, surprisingly, comfy enough to wear all day. Whether they’re worn with jeans or a summer dress, a wedge will elongate the leg and make everything look that bit more flattering.
8. The summer dress
Possibly the trickiest to find, but once you crack the most flattering style for you, the versatility is endless. Wear with a flat for day or add a metallic heel to take you effortlessly into a summer evening.
9. The bag
Bags can be expensive, so find one that excites you and which you really love.
10. The gold necklace
Costume jewellery is having a real moment. The minute you add a gold necklace to a boyfriend shirt, for example, you look instantly more pulled together.