Misada, Huapai

By CARROLL Du CHATEAU for canvas

Finally, after several years living in the area, we made it to Misada, one of the most popular restaurants in Kumeu. Misada is always booked solid. Even when we do manage to score a table we are out on the terrace, cooking gently beneath the gas heaters with the rowdier guests, rain lashing the plastic roof.

Obviously it isn't ambience — or service for that matter — that makes this place so popular with the locals. However, when we sighted one of Misada's platters heading our way, heaped with mussels (crumbed shell and all) and other delicacies, all was revealed. This is the home of hearty, old-fashioned food with not a fusion, foam-style sauce or stack-served meal in sight.

Neil's seafood fritters were large and delicious, while Brian's chicken livers (both $14) were perfectly classically cooked, as was my superb French onion soup ($10.50). Only Erin was displeased with her "rubbery" squid ($13) but that was forgiven when her venison pie ($28) arrived, served in a bowl as big as as a serving dish. It was steaming hot, topped with crisp, flaky pastry and underneath, rich, dark, gamey venison. All who tasted it declared it a masterpiece.

And so it continued. The short wine list is dominated by local wines — meaning most are made locally from grapes grown in Marlborough, Martinborough or Hawkes Bay. And the classic food is perfectly cooked.

We chose a Vidals Estate riesling, which turned out too thin and acid for me, and an Esk Valley merlot, which, on the other hand, was velvety and delicious. They were both $38.

My scallops ($17 entree-size) were plump, tender and swimming in a piquant wine sauce, Brian's filet mignon ($29) was melt-in-the-mouth, though he did think the mushrooms were an add-on, rather than an integral part of the dish, and Neil's fish of the day (ever-reliable snapper, served with scallops, $31) delectable.

We could manage only two desserts to share: the apple pie, which was so good I couldn't get near it, and bombitas, which turned out to be hokey pokey ice cream thick-coated in chocolate, with a caramel-choc sauce poured over and a liberal dollop of cream on top. Mmm. They were both $9.50 and both obviously home-made.

When the crush started winding down — which happens early in the west — our over-busy waiter had the time to reveal Misada's secret. Apparently the restaurant is run by a former owner of a Tony's restaurant in the city. Even more important, she brought the Tony's chef to Kumeu with her.

We haven't been to Tony's for a while, but believe me, the unmistakable style is welcome in the west. And remember, if you want to try Misada, don't forget to book.