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Home / Lifestyle

Lowdown on how men can look fashionable this summer

29 Aug, 2006 06:29 AM8 mins to read

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Zambesi uses deconstructed linen jackets and cotton suits to soften the rock'n'roll look.

Zambesi uses deconstructed linen jackets and cotton suits to soften the rock'n'roll look.

So if all you guys out there lived in Milan, this is what you might don for a day at the beach: a white tailored jacket over your finely muscled bare chest, jandals, a pair of pale apricot swim trunks (the sort your Grandpa would have worn in the 50s) and you'll all be toting man bags.

Sadly - or not, depending on your point of view - possibly the closest the average New Zealand guy on the coast will come to this is the jandals.

However, there is no doubt that New Zealand men, just like men the whole world over, are slowly becoming more fashion-focused. Just look at the new crop of men's magazines. Or some of those designer-obsessed All Blacks.

But because of the self-consciousness associated with blokes-worrying-about-clothes, it's a slow shift. The messages guys send with their outfits is quiet - they'll communicate their sensuality with a fabric choice and the shape of garments: things like soft cotton and knits but never a super-tight, low-cut T-shirt.

Comfort still has to co-exist with style and ladies, you can tell a lot about a man by his jacket. Leather speaks of a hankering for a bit of rough and maybe a big motorbike whereas a trim, tailored wool coat says "master of the universe".

Other changes have more to do with trends - for instance, that bit-too-big, yeah-I-slept-in-this look has been on its way out for a while.

Silhouettes are slimmer and a more chic, kempt look is on the way. Bring back the belts, shirts and the good old tuck in. It's also particularly evident in the wild popularity of the polo-shirt which is rivalling the faded T-shirt's status in the fashion world this season.

And even if you're not living in Milan or that delightful shade of apricot doesn't go with your stubble, these are trends that will affect every guy's wardrobe.

We asked several local leading menswear designers for their take on the coming summer's looks for fellas.


WORKSHOP

This summer the Workshop Denim collection is inspired by early 20th-century workwear as well as the 1950s Beat generation.

As well as the slimmer leg lines that every fashion label worth its tape measure is touting, the range includes casual, unstructured suiting, deep V-neck T-shirts and some of the best fitting jeans - slim, straight or tapered styles - although there are roomier alternatives for those who don't want to restrict their circulation.

The label's designer is Chris Cherry.

The biggest trend in menswear this summer?

Slim, more tailored silhouettes.

What will every guy be wearing?

Workshop Slim Fit jeans or Super Slim Fit jeans. With our Deep V T-shirts in acid yellow, eggshell blue or grey marle.

Your mate wants to impress a date and look a little more fashionable. How would you help?

Lose the overly distressed, trashy washes. Get a classic, well cut, dark denim jean.

Your other mate wants to work as a male model and needs to look ultra-groovy. How would you help him?

Get him a cotton drill or cotton-linen slim, deconstructed suit. Worn with a superfine Italian poplin shirt, completed with a Workshop calfskin loafer or Tretorn sneakers.

SUMMER FASHION TIPS

Rock 'n' roll or dance floor:

Rock 'n' roll.

Long hair or short hair:

Definitely long hair teamed with skinny jeans for that rock look. Think of Auckland band White Birds and Lemons.

Board shorts or Speedos?

Board shorts.


HUFFER

This label with attitude, founded by skateboarder Dan Buckley and snowboarder Steve Dunstan, always manages to straddle the fine line between your average hoodie and something a little fancier.

These guys make skinny jeans but designer Buckley's have a skater-look to them, with an almost baggy feeling.

So you don't have to pretend you're in Franz Ferdinand to buy a pair.

The biggest trend in menswear this summer?

Slim legs. Skinny pants have been happening for a while but I think more men are going to be wearing them. It's going to have an even broader appeal. And deep V tees - time to show some chest hair.

What will every guy be wearing?

Skinny legs and jandals. The thing is there is no such thing as wrong [in fashion]. Style is about not caring too much how you look, it's about how you feel.

Any other significant trend guys should take note of?

Facial hair. It's so wrong, it's right. And colour. Colour and black and white geometry go well together, too.

Your mate wants to impress a date and look a little more fashionable. How would you help?

I would say, get some muscles and a tan. Confidence is where it's at. So get outside and run around, lift some weights and the ladies will be flocking.

Your other mate wants to work as a male model and needs to look ultra-groovy. How would you help him?

Add some fruity silhouettes. Super skinny legs with a baggy ass, low crutch and some over sized, hyper-coloured basketball boots. Team that with an oversized T-shirt with a deep V. You will need some extra lean muscles, a quiffed haircut and a healthy dose of double confidence to pull something freaky like that.

The best magazines for fashion tips and advice?

Transworld skateboarding magazine - sometimes.

SUMMER FASHION TIPS

What to wear to the cricket:

A box.

Beard or moustache?

If I could grow one that wasn't lopsided I'd be all over it.

Summer reading recommendations?

Simpsons Comics. And Whatever You Think, Think The Opposite [by Paul Arden].

Summer listening:

Cody ChesnuTT


LITTLE BROTHER

This summer's collection from Little Brother has been christened Hell's Bells and is, according to the label, "a collection inspired by brass band uniforms with some kind of weird 70s glam rock cross-over. Think AC/DC and Dragon."

At Little Brother they're also talking skinny pants, brass buttons and pleat front dinner shirts - which makes this label a great one for the average guy who wants to looks like he's made an effort at fashion.

Label owner Murray Crane says their silhouette is still slim and that he's thinking "dressing up, not dressing down".

The biggest trend in menswear this summer?

Bright colours such as yellow. Ginghams and rock'n'roll inspired embellishments. There will also be a return to formality with slim suit jackets instead of hoodies and jeans are slim and dark, not distressed.

What will every guy be wearing?

Skinny tailored trousers, shirts with small collars, good shoes and interesting classic accessories.

Your mate wants to impress a date and look a little more fashionable. How would you help?

With good, well-made shoes and a great suit jacket.

Your other mate wants to work as a male model and needs to look ultra-groovy. How would you help?

With a tuxedo coat, slim, tailored shirt and a bow tie.

The best magazines for fashion tips and advice...

Vogue Hommes and a resurgent ID

SUMMER FASHION TIPS

What to wear to the cricket:

Striped blazer and skinny, off-white trousers with a brown brogue and odd socks.

Grooming tips:

Wash, don't smell, and clean your teeth three times a day

Summer listening:

Dimmer


ZAMBESI

The menswear at Zambesi is easily the sort of thing you might see on an international runway and is possibly the most innovative men's clothing in the country.

The collection is inspired by head designer Elisabeth Findlay's Greek heritage. It's all about deconstructed linen jackets, mercerized cotton suits and knit shirts and shorts that carefully soften last season's slimmer, harder rock'n'roll look for boys.

But that high fashion feeling doesn't mean it should be reserved for flamboyant sartorial adventurers. A lot of this gear can be worn both casually or formally, a lot of it's very sexy and it's an awesome way to add distinctive elegance and originality to any guy's look.

The designer of Zambesi's menswear collection is Dayne Johnson.

The biggest trend in menswear this summer?

Waistcoats worn over T-shirts and singlets.

Other significant trends for men?

Cravats. Worn with more casual tops, cravats, ties and other neckwear all add personality to a man's wardrobe.

What will every guy be wearing?

Zambesi swim trunks.

Your mate wants to impress a date and look a little more fashionable. How would you help?

Add some knitwear. We've used a lightweight cotton yarn to make styles which are really versatile. Our polo shirt is a great alternative to either a T-shirt or shirt and looks amazing with either tailored or casual trousers. Plus the Zambesi cardigan can replace a jacket or sweatshirt and instantly update the attitude and aesthetic.

Your other mate wants to work as a male model and needs to look ultra-groovy. How would you help him?

Get him the "Hero" T-back singlet in cotton tulle and the "Stooges" skinny jeans in lightweight yellow corduroy.

The best magazines for fashion tips and advice?

10 magazine

SUMMER FASHION TIPS

Beard or moustache?

Stubble

Surfing or cricket?

Surfing.

Summer listening:

Thom Yorke, The Smiths, Morrissey, Patti Smith.

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