London shows its true colours

Karen Walker’s red patent leather belts were a signature look (L), Fur from Betty Jackson. Picture (R) / Reuters

There may have been a distinctly icy blast coming off the Thames at London Fashion Week's new home in Battersea, south London, but bright colours and bold prints combined to make clothing for the colder months a vibrant affair.

With the exception of a few designers, such as Nicole Farhi, Jens Laugesen and the more muted end of Frost French's collection, rich shades reigned. It seems black has also lost its place as the perennial winter favourite.

UK fashion stalwart Betty Jackson's Too Cool for School collection included both rounded wool jackets and full skirts in mustard and flowing velvet dresses in red and gold. Inspired by Mia Farrow in Rosemary's Baby, chiffon babydoll dresses featured in deep purple, bottle green and blue-and-black floral prints.

Meanwhile Giles Deacon, hailed as British fashion's new hope, showed a deluxe range of ballgowns in silver, olive and racing green velvet and silk faille. Jessica Ogden's collection of smocks, plaid skirts and berets used soft pinks and greens as well as bright tangerines and yellows to evoke 1920s Paris. Accessories, too, were brightly coloured and used to clever effect. Tights in electrifying shades of cobalt, purple and jade strode several catwalks, including Betty Jackson's and Paul Smith's. Elegant, sequinned scarves graced Jenny Packham's stunning vamp dresses. Red patent leather belts were a signature look in Karen Walker's first on-schedule show at London Fashion Week; Jessica Ogden featured brightly coloured ankle socks.

Metallics shone in several shows - from Julien MacDonald's brown and gold puff-ball style evening dress to Betty Jackson's slim-fitting trousers in copper to Gharani Strok's floral print dresses with metallic flecks. Clements Ribeiro teamed chocolate brown and navy with flashes of gold and silver.

A trend that divided Fashion Week was MacDonald's brazen use of fur. Dubbed the Welsh Donatella, the flamboyant designer's collection included full-length chinchilla, mink, sable and fox coats and was shown on a catwalk strewn with cow hides. MacDonald maintains his biggest market is in Russia where fur is commonly worn.

Although the controversy may have kick started Fashion Week, it overshadowed the stunning eveningwear worn beneath the coats.

Not unusually, the week was also dogged by a distinct lack of star designers. Since Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen started showing abroad in 2001 it's been traditional to bemoan the fact that Britain's biggest names show elsewhere.

Many designers are still coming to terms with a new, softer and less-fitted silhouette. Jackson's skirts were full but conservatively below the knee; Jessica Ogden layered a wide dirndl skirt over tracksuit bottoms. Trousers finally edged up above the hip but failed to rise to the waist. While the use of colour was inspiring, when it came to the shape of the clothes at Fashion Week, many of the collections either played it safe or fell short of moving fashion forward.