KEY POINTS:
An atmosphere of quiet studiousness descends on the Cloudy Bay barrel hall as pinot-philes from around the globe get stuck into sniffing, sipping and spitting their way through 21 examples of the revered variety. From Burgundy to California, Tasmania to Marlborough, wines from most of the great and
emerging pinot producing regions of the world are all represented here at the winery's annual pinot noir event.
Although we'd all had a chance to peruse the tasting booklet in advance, to see what was in store, all the wines were tasted blind to ensure our pinot preconceptions were left at the door. Thoughts flowed as fast as the pinot across our palates as we slurped our way through the three flights: "Well that's definitely a burgundy. Ah, what a wonderfully silky texture! Hmm, could that be the rare Swiss pinot that everyone's intrigued to try? Mmm, with all that plush fruit, this could be New World or Old World, but what the heck, it's delicious wherever it's from!"
This may all sound a bit trainspotter-ish, but enjoyment definitely plays an important part in the day's proceedings. "It's fundamentally a celebration of the variety," says Cloudy Bay's chief winemaker Kevin Judd, as well as a relaxed educational and benchmarking exercise shared with fellow pinot lovers.
"It's also an excellent way to learn year on year and make an honest evaluation of where we are - both Cloudy Bay and New Zealand in general - in world terms with the variety," he says.
So how were our wines looking? The 2005 vintage from which all the wines were selected this year was a knockout year in Burgundy, and I have to admit that when the identities of the wines were unveiled at the end of the tasting I discovered that my favourite wine hailed from the variety's hallowed heartland and was also the most highly priced of the tasting. Would that my tastes were not so expensive!
Nevertheless, the New Zealand contingent - represented this year by Cloudy Bay, Quartz Reef, Escarpment, Carrick, Muddy Water and Winegrowers of Ara - amply held their own amongst this impressive regional pinot hall of fame.
New Zealand's pinot noirs have come a long way since Cloudy Bay first started holding the annual event nine years ago. "In the earlier days the New Zealand wines were technically very good but probably looked more fruit-driven and less complex than some of the overseas wines," observes Judd. "Over the years we have seen some definite blurring of the lines between the styles from the New and Old worlds and are seeing more structure in the New Zealand pinots across the board, with some rated by many tasters to be in the top few wines of the tasting."
Gone are the days when in international line-ups, New Zealand pinots would stick out like a goblet of Cold Duck at a champagne launch. This is something that's down to a mixture of better vines, sites and management in the vineyard and winery, as our vignerons get to grips with what it takes to make great pinot noir in this country.
LOCAL PINOT PICKS
CLEARLY QUALITY
Cloudy Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006 $42
Cloudy Bay's pinot showed very well in the line-up and has made great progress in recent years. It's an elegant example with a fine silky palate and pure berry fruit over toasty and forest floor notes and a long savoury mineral finish.
(From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Caro's, First Glass, Millar & Co, Glengarry, Hamilton Wine Company.)
BERRY NICE
Bishops Head Waipara Pinot Noir 2006 $30-$32
An attractive debut from this Waipara winery headed by Peter Saunders, whose career in wine started at Cloudy Bay. Svelte and silken-textured, its tangy berry fruit is complemented by layers of savoury, mocha, smoke and mineral, plus a subtle hint of rose.
(From Don Johnsons, Artisan Fine Wine Supply, Fine Wine Delivery Company.)
NEW DISCOVERY
Anthem Pinot Noir "Discover" 2006 $28.95
An impressive second label pinot from Anthem that has lots of fresh, bright cherry and berry fruit underpinned by a line of earthy minerally complexity and spice. Now with ex-Martinborough Vineyard's Claire Mullholland at the winemaking helm, this estate and its pinot is definitely one to watch.
(For stockists view www.anthem.co.nz.)
