Lanna Thai, Mt Eden

Lanna Thai's sizzling beef. Picture / Glen Jeffrey

Herald rating: * * * 1/2


Yes, the shift went very well, thanks for asking, apart from the fridge that doesn't fit into the cubby hole, the drier ditto, and the DIY bookshelf that arrived without shelves.

But these are minor inconveniences for one who has fled the horrors of living in the city (as detailed in the column last week, see www.nzherald.co.nz for those who may have missed that gripping instalment).

Within days it feels as though I have lived here all my life, which may be down to the fact that I grew up in the next street. Some things have changed - for the better.

There's a Thai restaurant at either end of the street. It's my belief our national affection for this cuisine parallels the British love affair with curries. And unlike the Brits we believe we haven't refried a proud culinary tradition to suit our tastes. You can tell this because most of the restaurants dotted around our cityside sport signs boasting "authentic Thai cuisine".

Lanna Thai's claim is genuine. I have this on good authority. The Thai wife of a friend of a mate reckons this is close to the real thing, and as she chats in Thai to the staff when she eats here, I think we should take her words for it.

More things to like about this place. It doesn't have a silly name like Thaiphoon or Thai One On. It's a big, well-lit room with the usual knick-knacks, silks and flowers. The staff are smiling, courteous, helpful and efficient, but refrain from any studied, murmuring obsequiousness. This may be genuine good manners at home but can come across as a gimmick when practised abroad.

Oh joy!'Tis a BYO, a species that once flourished throughout our land and is all but extinct, especially in the metropolis. Compared with the outrageous gouging of $5 and up for corkage in those that survive, Lanna Thai ask a reasonable $2 for providing and washing the glass.

Lanna is the northern region of the nation, centred around Chiang Mai. The name translates to "land of a million rice fields", roughly the number of dishes on many Thai menus.

Lanna Thai pares its list to about eight of the cuisine's greatest hits in the usual categories: appetisers, soups, noodles and rice, curries and stir fries.

We three figured we could put away half a dozen platters if we paced ourselves. Dick and Stephanie, with previous experience, ordered a couple of favourites while I threw in a couple of newcomers to spice things up.

Chicken satay was a skewer above the usual offering, money bags of pork and peanuts light and moreish, tempura suitably light, though the prawns were princes rather than kings.

Hormok tha-lay is a small mountain of steamed seafood, sealed inside foil until it releases its aromas around the diners. Pad ped - stir fried and sliced beef, gorgeously vegetabled, tanged up with red curry - made an excellent bridge to the final platter. Gaeng hunglay is a northern-style curry, pork playing with tamarind, ginger and spices.

So many of Lanna Thai's compatriots serve a greasy and insipid take on this intriguing cuisine. Perhaps they fear western diners will shy from the spices and curries.

They shouldn't: New Zealanders are curious and adventurous enough to backpack around their nation and eat the food there.

Happily, Lanna Thai values bold flavours, subtle aromas - and fresh vegetables.

Welcoming people. Nicely restored villa, excellent meal, nice to drop into their place.

Now that I've met the neighbourhood restaurant, I must get around to meeting the neighbours. 

Address: 839 Mt Eden Rd
Phone: (09) 638 6758
Open: 7 days, 5.30pm till late
Cuisine: Thai
From the menu: Lanna northern sausage with pork and Thai herbs $7.50; Tom yum goong (spicy king prawn soup) $9; Pad Thai (stir-fried rice noodles with shrimps) $16.50
Roast duck in red curry $19
Vegetarian: All you can eat
Wine: Mainstream Kiwi list, $26-$68, BYO