Landreth & Collie, Ponsonby

By GRAHAM HEPBURN for canvas

A recent arrival on Ponsonby Rd, Landreth & Collie Baristas has styled its logo as if it were a legal firm -- a riff possibly inspired by the barrister/barista spelling confusion you see in Situations Vacant ads featured in some publications' bloopers columns.

So, to the matter of brunching at Landreth & Collie, which has assumed the site once occupied by Musical Knives.

The case against Landreth & Collie is a hard one to make: the only quibble being the small outdoor tables, which are not much bigger than some of the more ostentatious dining plates seen on this strip. And there was the minor irritation of being hit with a 15 per cent surcharge for having the temerity to eat out on Anzac Day, although at least we were told about it as we ordered and not after.

The case for Landreth & Collie is more substantive: supported by my barista's grill (aka the big breakfast, $16) which was perfectly prepared and generous with the bacon. Jane's potato hash ($12.50) was, likewise, a lavish serving of home-made herbed potato cake, tomato, field mushroom, avocado and (as an extra) bacon. Also, these premises can turn out a fluffy to please the increasingly discerning Sophie May.

There are all the usual breakfast offerings (including a vege grill with gluten-free polenta crust, $12), but if you are more interested in the lunch side of things, there is a variety of salads (crisp vege, grilled lamb, smoked chicken, grilled goats cheese, griddled scallop from $13-$17), as well as fish of the day, fresh tomato pasta and the top-priced grilled steak ($23).

The interior of this small cafe has a warm feel, and there are signs of a courtyard being developed out the back, past the spotless toilets.

There can also be presented abundant evidence of prompt and amiable service. And for a cafe that boldly attaches the name baristas, it lives up to that tag with excellent coffee, although you wouldn't survive long in this neighbourhood with below-par grinds.

So, the judgment in this matter is for Landreth & Collie, an award is made of $43.50 (including surcharge) and we are free to go.

Hours

Open seven days, 7am to 4pm

Service

Pleasant and prompt

Ambience

Relaxed, but the place is busy

Parking

The usual Ponsonby Rd madness

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.