NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather forecasts

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Budget 2025
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
    • Cooking the Books
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • What the Actual
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Lifestyle

Land of the flat white crowd

By Ben Fahy
NZ Herald·
5 Feb, 2008 04:00 PM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Liv Bjorklund, co-manager of Flat White in Soho.

Liv Bjorklund, co-manager of Flat White in Soho.

KEY POINTS:

For the many New Zealanders and Australians living in London, finding a decent brew in the Mother Country has long been considered an outright impossibility.

Mercifully, however, a relatively recent injection of Antipodean-influenced cafes and coffee expertise has delivered a long-overdue shot of quality into the city's coffee cups.

In this year's inaugural Cafe of the Year awards, judged by London's cultural bible, Time Out magazine, three of the top five - Flat White, Sacred and Bullet - happen to be owned, operated and staffed almost exclusively by New Zealanders and Australians.

Added to that, Fernando & Wells, the English/Spanish cafe that was awarded the top prize, relies heavily on Antipodean baristas.

There's a good reason New Zealand's much-lauded coffee culture has started to thrive in London. The British have been raised on a diet of oversized, overpriced and average coffee provided by cafe chains such as Starbucks, Caffe Nero and Costa.

"[The English] just don't know any better. It's an education thing," says Liv Bjorklund, co-manager of Flat White in Soho.

"A lot of our customers in the first year, they said they had never tasted anything like it before. We were blowing their minds and they were saying, 'Wow, that tastes incredible. I never knew coffee could taste like that'."

Tubbs Wanigasekera and Matthew Clark, the Kiwi owners of Sacred Cafe in the bustling shopping enclave of Carnaby St, agree that five years ago few, if any, Brits would ever meet in a cafe. And while they believe the English are slowly starting to catch on, they feel New Zealand is still seven to 10 years ahead when it comes to overall coffee nous.

As well as their cafe in Carnaby St, the pair have opened a successful coffee kiosk on one of the busiest streets in London and are looking to open another cafe in Covent Garden or Islington. Phil Ross, who co-owns Bullet cafe and roastery with his sister Vicki, says he looked for a good cafe "everywhere I went" before setting up their business.

"All of the coffee was terrible," he says.

Ross says his friends told him that "coffee is just something you have to give up when you come to London".

"So I figured that if I was going to find a good cafe, I'd have to do it myself."

While Bullet is still a relatively small operation, the Rosses also supply their unique blend of coffee to a few cafes and restaurants, including Providores, the restaurant of celebrity chef Peter Gordon.


Bjorklund says that because beverage preference is a rather subjective field, there are obviously a number of other countries gunning for the title of "world's best coffee".

Italy will always be considered the home of the espresso, for example, despite the fact the coffee bean originated in Ethiopia and espresso, which means fast, is actually an American bastardisation of the Italian word spresso, which means pressed. But she thinks New Zealand could stake a claim to being home to the world's best coffee and milk.

Ross, who has spent a lot of time in Italy, agrees with the "coffee and milk" hypothesis. He says Italians "roast their beans really dark, they use poor quality robusta, and they're not in it for the taste, they're in it for the hit".

New Zealand coffee, on the other hand, offers the best of both worlds: a strong dose of caffeine as well as taste and smoothness.


But how, in deepest, darkest Aotearoa, did such a vibrant coffee culture develop? Bjorklund puts it down to combination of quality dairy products and our refined palates.

Wanigasekera pins New Zealand's recent, rapid and somewhat perplexing coffee diaspora on the quirky, passionate entrepreneurs of the 1980s, who started out small and began opening cafes before making the transition to coffee importation, blending and roasting.


So do those of foreign extraction agree that New Zealand is home to some of the world's best coffee? Could the flat white be the new sauvignon blanc?

While Bjorklund says Flat White is informally known as the "Antipodean embassy" by some, she estimates that around half of its customers are British locals, many of whom work in film and post-production around Soho.

In fact, so good has the cafe's reputation become that in some cases, she says, older English customers from the country have heard about the New Zealand-run cafe and made a trip to the city to see what all the fuss is about.

Even the owner of the huge British coffee chain Costa paid Flat White a visit one night and, not surprisingly, was suitably impressed. He also offered to supply the cafe with coffee beans. The management politely declined.

Bjorklund says the owners are considering expanding their cafe empire to explore the niche that seems to be developing in London for quality coffee - "give it five years," she says. "We have a lot of people come in saying, 'This is my first flat white in two years'," she says. "But I do wonder, does it really need to be such a luxury in London?"

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Save

    Share this article

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
Opinion

Opinion: Will Auckland's food snobs ever be satisfied?

21 May 06:00 AM
Premium
Lifestyle

Winter citrus fruits: Do they really help boost immunity?

21 May 06:00 AM
Entertainment

Tami Neilson joins Tauranga Arts Festival lineup with new tour

21 May 03:00 AM

Sponsored: How much is too much?

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
Opinion: Will Auckland's food snobs ever be satisfied?

Opinion: Will Auckland's food snobs ever be satisfied?

21 May 06:00 AM

How restaurants are feeding a city's obsession with eating the next big thing.

Premium
Winter citrus fruits: Do they really help boost immunity?

Winter citrus fruits: Do they really help boost immunity?

21 May 06:00 AM
Tami Neilson joins Tauranga Arts Festival lineup with new tour

Tami Neilson joins Tauranga Arts Festival lineup with new tour

21 May 03:00 AM
Premium
How to manage your blood sugar with exercise

How to manage your blood sugar with exercise

21 May 12:00 AM
Sponsored: Cosy up to colour all year
sponsored

Sponsored: Cosy up to colour all year

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • What the Actual
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven CarGuide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP