Land of opportunity

2008 Hawkshead Pinot Noir. Photo / Paul Estcourt

You'd be excused for thinking the recent pinot noir export swindle by the French would be an excellent chance for New Zealand pinot noir producers to get a significant foothold in the lucrative American market.

In case you missed it, 18 million bottles of French wine passed off as top quality pinot noir was in fact cheap, inferior "plonk" dumped on an unsuspecting US market. Quelle horreur.

What's even more disturbing is that, apparently, the American wine buying public couldn't tell the difference. But nobody likes to be deceived, and this has left, well, a sour taste in the mouths of many Americans.

For New Zealand, this surely presents itself as a window of opportunity too good to pass up. However the US is a tough nut to crack. While fast becoming the premier wine consumers of the world, in the past they have been mesmerised by the history, tradition and flair of French wine. On top of that they are very patriotic and tend to buy and drink their own wines.

Also their own pinot noir production is large and very good, especially from California and Oregon. However, even by American standards, it is expensive, and New Zealand is viewed as a pristine boutique premium wine producer with competitive pricing and pinot noir of exceptional quality.

Not that they haven't heard all this before, it's just, well, the French were there first, distribution has been difficult, often we've not been able to guarantee the volumes required, and that great leveller - "New Zealand? Is that a state of Australia or somewhere down there?"

Talk to any significant local pinot producer and they'll tell you it's not only tough out there, but it's getting tougher. Well now is the time for the pinot growers of Martinborough, Marlborough, Nelson, Central Otago, Waipara and the rest to seize the moment.

At a recent four-day intensive New Zealand pinot noir conference, one packed tight with significant international wine scribes, tasters and shakers, one message kept being hammered home: "Our global wine reputation, although excellent, is as fragile as the pinot grape itself. We must play in the super-premium league, avoid bulk and cheap, and deliver priceless value."

The will to do it may determine New Zealand's wine future.

Recommended

2008 Hawkshead Pinot Noir
From a single estate vineyard in Central Otago's Gibbston Valley. Seamless, silky wine with clarity of red fruit flavours, bright acidity and subtle but muscular tannins. Refined finesse.
Price: $39

2008 Bouldevines Pinot Noir
From Dog Point Road vineyard in Marlborough. Proof that our pinot noir is stretching its versatile legs. Strong aromas of complex spices and roasted plum. Slides down easily with a long finish of cherries and mushrooms. Real value.
Price: $31