What's cooking: Andre Taber

Andre Taber shares tips on how to find the great New Zealand pie.

Food writer Andre Taber is an expert on pies. Travelling the country in search of good examples to include in his book The Great New Zealand Pie Guide will do that for anyone. It's a guide to the 160 bakeries that met his strict criteria - from the old-fashioned mince variety to the fancy chicken, asparagus and cashew pie, and everything between.

What's the attraction to pies?

They're the ultimate New Zealand comfort food, part of our psyche. They often slip under the radar of culinarians and get a rough deal from health reformers, but we eat millions of them. The reason to write the book was to encourage people not to waste good calories on bad pies.

What do you look for in a good pie?

Generosity, uncomplicated flavours, well-made pastry and a healthy respect for tradition.

The best one you've eaten?

What amazed me was just how easy it was to find a superb pie. The aim of the book was to recommend many outstanding pie shops around New Zealand. There's such a huge range of styles and flavours available it would be unfair to single out any of the pies in my book - they're all good.

Do you make pies yourself or just eat others?

The great New Zealand pie is by definition a store-bought one, but I love the tradition of home-made pies, and, as a keen cook, of course I make them myself. My favourite way to eat a pie at home is to make a proper knife-and-fork meal of it. Pea, pie and pud - pie with peas and mashed potato, doused with good home-made gravy.

What should you drink with a pie?

Depends on the occasion. Soft drinks or strong tea are perfect to cut the grease when you're having a pie on the run. There's nothing wrong with having a coffee with your pie. The more special the pie, the more it calls for beer or wine.

Is there any pie you'd never eat?

One from a baker who has already let me down. Cheap pies have a reputation for being nasty, rubbish-filled coffins. If you come across one of those, never buy one again.

Your favourite pie shop?

One that cares about its customers and understands that a pie needs to be straightforward and honest. These shops come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. I encourage all your readers to get to know their local one.

What do you eat when you can't face another pie?

As a food writer, I have a pretty broad palate, so I'll eat - and write about - just about anything. At the moment we're getting a weekly delivery of organic vegetables from Kelmarna City Farm and I am enjoying the challenge of seasonal eating.

What food do you always have on hand?

Onions, garlic, chilli peppers and olive oil are my base for any successful meal. Add good-quality dried pasta and you've got a quick, simple and yummy supper.

Your favourite restaurant?

Navas on Ponsonby Rd. They do uncomplicated Malaysian-Indian street-style curries, bursting with flavour and always served with a smile.

Who would you most like to have cook for you?

Despite his ego, Gordon Ramsay. I admire him for using his books and television programmes to teach people that fancy restaurant food is no good without an honest base of good ingredients and skills. He's also done a lot to help the revival of British food and I reckon he'd make a pretty mean pie.