Chicken Iskender (front) and Turkish Delight (rear) from Jaan restaurant in Kingsland. Photo / Glenn Jeffrey
WHERE: 505 New North Rd, Kingsland, Auckland (09) 846 6652
OUR MEAL: $146 for three entrees, three mains, five beers and lokum (Turkish delights)
OUR WINE: Short but serviceable selection, a few by the glass.
VERDICT: Friendly staff, more muted light in the back, away from the takeaway area and bar, and a fresh-tasting menu.
OUT OF 10
FOOD: 8
SERVICE: 7
VALUE: 7
AMBIENCE: 6
A fortnight after we'd had a very enjoyable evening at Jaan, a Turkish place which had just opened in Kingsland, a local reviewer had some ho-hum comments about it.
Unlike that writer, however, we'd had excellent and friendly service, enjoyed the view of suburban lights from
Jaan's red-toned dining area, and found the food fresh and interesting within the self-imposed limitations of the menu.
Admittedly, we did speculate about opening a new place in what seems to be a sector in decline, however Jaan is allied to Dunedin's extremely popular Paasha, but can't call itself that in Auckland because we already have a restaurant with a similar name. And given the current economic climate - not to mention the competition in Kingsland - we thought it smart to have the takeaway option in the brightly-lit front of the renovated villa.
There are certain constraints with their menu: you have to like lamb or chicken because most options revolve around them in variants on similar themes. There was one fish of the day choice, but Jaan caters well for those who don't eat meat. So when my vegan son - who had loved the food in various parts of the Middle East - was over from London recently, Jaan beckoned again.
And again we weren't disappointed. Especially not the vegan.
On the first encounter Megan and I loved their vegetarian tasting platter but this time Megan had their freshly made dolma with minted yoghurt sauce. Julian delighted in an extremely generous serving of hummus with pita bread, and I had the prawn salad. All of these were flavourful and well-presented, and were washed down with very palatable Efes beer from Turkey.
Julian was also pleased that his being of the vegan persuasion was no problem for either the waiter or kitchen staff who understood exactly what that meant, not something you can say about too many places in Auckland, he noted.
For his mains he had the falafel which he pronounced excellent, and I said the same of my chargrilled beef kebab. Megan's chicken iskender - diced chicken in tomato, cumin, onion and garlic - is apparently a popular dish in the West, but whether it be the butter chicken of Turkey or not, it was excellent.
If there is a criticism, it would be that on both occasions the kebabs were too liberally smothered in sauce which, while being a tasty blend of red wine with peppers, onion and tomato, somewhat detracted from the appearance, if not the subtlety.
But that seems a small complaint and easily rectified - although I suspect Jaan shouldn't be of a mind to change too much of the winning formula they hit on in Dunedin.
And they make the most delicious lokum (Turkish delight), which we have also taken home to enjoy later.
Downstairs is a spacious area opening on to a large, suntrap deck - which I expect will be a popular spot once the rains clear and the temperature is respectable again.
Given how many sit-down or take-out patrons seem to have found Jaan - set back from the road and far from bannering its presence - it looks like it is here to stay. And we're very happy with that.
