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Once again it was with excitement that we climbed the grey, marble steps to Harbourside.I've always loved the restaurant with its views over the harbour and rows of tables set with polished glasses and starched white tablecloths. In the 80s it was a magnet for property developers and Mad Men-types
who used to down bottles of Bollinger with their gamefish at lunchtime and, I suspect, sneak their mistresses back for dinner in the evening.
So it was a little sad to find this so-glam venue not only almost empty, but also decidedly tatty round the edges. We wondered what had happened as the staff led us to a table across from piles of stored outdoor furniture, a noisy espresso machine and a grimy tank full of writhing crayfish.
There were dozens more tables to choose from. But we were quickly distracted by the offer of ciabatta and dips, an excellent bottle of Palliser Estate riesling and a very good (if rather tired-looking) menu to peruse. Harbourside covers all the bases. There were oysters, lots of crayfish and for me, the second chance in my life to eat New Zealand scampi.
The men started with seafood chowder, ($15) the women with crayfish ravioli ($26), bluff oysters ($4.80 each) and garlic prawns ($21). All three soups were superb, the chowder laden with seafood, not too thick, just creamy enough not to not ruin the next course.
The ravioli was also fabulous: a thin, fragrant, fishy soup with just a couple of tender parcels floating in the bottom of the bowl. But my garlic prawns were straight from the 80s: about eight of them crowded into a bowl with almost as many roasted potatoes. Real-man tucker and, I must admit, Marcus cleaned up the remaining potatoes in a flash after I'd finished.
Five minutes later, and well before we were ready, our main courses appeared. But when I saw my grilled scampi ($37) all was forgiven. About six of the leggy, lovely creatures, split down the middle and grilled. Every morsel was tender and succulent. Scampi is a million times better than crayfish, almost impossible to get.
Our other main courses were okay. Helen's hapuka was fine, if a couple of minutes over-cooked, Brian's duck ($34) served twice-cooked French-style was satisfying, Andrea's seafood risotto was excellent and Marcus' much-heralded seafood platter was good without being brilliant. It arrived on a two-tier stand, heaped with everything from Thai-style fish cakes and goujons of battered fish to raw oysters, marinated mussels and cockles. But even at $57, it was not enough for two men.
By contrast, our desserts were spectacular. The banana ragout turned out to be a medley of some sort of fried banana cake/fritter, served with cream, icecream and more; the chocolate pave had the others swooning. Looking back it was a memorable meal for the standout dishes, let down by tatty surroundings and unsophisticated service, which is a pity given that Harbourside occupies the city's best venue.
Next time we'll insist on a table in the main part of the restaurant, ask for a 30-minute gap between our entrees and main courses, avoid the seafood platter (indeed, I find almost all platters disappointing) and have a wonderful night of it, even if the place is half empty.
Our meal: $473.60 for five entrees and main courses plus bread and dips, a side of roast vegetables, two desserts, two bottles of Palliser Estate riesling and one glass of Ata Rangi sauvignon blanc.
Wine list: Plenty of variety though we could have done with a few more rounded-style pinot gris or riesling options.
Verdict: Worn but still wonderful, Harbourside offers the best seats in town and often-outstanding cuisine at less than $100 a head.
Rating out of 10
Food: 8
Service: 6
Value: 8
Ambience: 7
