Address: 376-378 Karangahape Rd, Auckland
Ph: (09) 300 7582
Ever since an after-function dinner before Christmas, we'd been meaning to revisit Coco's Cantina in Karangahape Rd. The relatively new tapas restaurant is the darling of the cool set. Sandwiched between a couple of strip joints just down from the bus stop, it's certainly in the interesting part of town. And the food we tried on that first night had been interesting too.
So Coco's was a sitter when we needed to eat out early in the new year, when much of the city was still asleep. We rolled up one Thursday at 7pm and were surprised to find the place packed. No tables at all left inside. Our choices: the K Rd footpath or a cute little table with a red-check tablecloth out back. We chose the latter after our waiter assured us they'd find us a table inside as soon as they could.
Part of the experience at Coco's Cantina are the waiters. Youngish, bouncy and super-friendly, they make the place hum before you even start. They also know the menu and wine list inside out and can recommend and adapt dishes to suit.
The test for me is to ask for a glass of non-astringent wine. This usually seems impossible, requiring many samples - and usually an unsatisfactory result - but not here. Our waiter suggested a glass of The Doctors riesling ($10), which was perfect, while the others were well satisfied with their chardonnays and sauvignon blancs, even a Satellite pinot noir ($10) they'd never encountered before, to accompany their mixed antipasto ($26 for three).
This was a serious antipasto plate. Alongside the salami and olives (which were huge and delicious) came thick and delectable slices of chargrilled aubergine and zucchini, marinated capsicum and artichokes, plus a roasted garlic clove, which was squeezed like a tube of toothpaste until it was dry. My pulled buffalo mozzarella with roasted cherry tomatoes ($16) lived up to what I'd always thought was an over-blown reputation. This sizeable chunk, which had actually been pulled off the block, was meaty and malleable with a distinct mild taste that went perfectly with its accompanying tomatoes with their hint of balsamic vinegar. Top marks.
The fish of day ($30) was a large serving of John Dory. It arrived in a parcel of baking paper, which Mike attacked with gusto thinking it was pastry, but it refused to yield its treasure until he untied the top. Inside, the fish was cooked until tender, sitting in a slightly watery sauce flavoured with olives and lemon. Delicious.
My entree-sized crumbed squid ($13) looked good but possibly not quite enough for my festive season-stretched appetite, so our waiter rustled up a plate of vegetables to accompany. There wasn't anything on the menu, so for $6 the chef produced chargrilled aubergine and exquisite, tender, roasted endive.
Brian was less happy with his seafood linguini ($26), which he hadn't been warned was laced with chilli. Maureen, a fabulous cook herself, enjoyed her chicken ($27). This had indeed been roasted then flash-grilled and was unbelievably moist.
No table inside had been forthcoming throughout the meal and by now the park benches in the garden were getting hard, so we decided to head to the Langham for coffee. Imagine our surprise when there was a spare table right inside the door. Surely they hadn't forgotten us, their only guests over 40?
Not really. They happily served us, but this time the experience was less satisfactory. Maureen's strawberry tart ($12) had an overly thick pastry base. The tiramisu ($12) was dull and I couldn't locate even a whisper of mascarpone in my icecream ($8 cone, $12 dish). A comfortable, if underwhelming, end to an enjoyable and well-priced meal.
Rating out of 10
Food: 7
Service: 8
Value: 7
Wine list: 7
Our meal: $270 for antipasto for three, two entrees or tapas, three main courses, one plate of vegetables and seven glasses of wine.
Wine list: Short, unusual and well-priced, with the occasional French accent. Our waiter, who knew them all intimately, didn't get it wrong once.
Verdict: Coco's Cantina has its good and bad patches. The atmosphere is young, funky and fun. Service is marvellous until they forget about you. The drinks menu is worth a visit in itself. And the food is occasionally fabulous, mostly competent but just once disappointing.
