Beauty: Lighter and brighter

Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Powerfoliant2, from a complete care kit. Photo / Babiche Martens

Whitening products were once marketed pretty much only in Asia to Asians. Now they are appearing in the ranges of major cosmetic companies world-wide to cater for consumer diversity and a growing awareness that certain formulas can help lessen the appearance of age and sun spots and brighten complexions.

We're not talking bleaches here, they're ruinous on the skin, like the lead-based Elizabethan fashion to look white and the cruel attempts some darker-skinned women submit to even today.

Modern whiteners, are less about trying to look pale than about targeting the blemishes that can mar an otherwise even-toned complexion. Dermalogica, which is launching its own whitening range in May, cites a study showing uneven skin tone adds 10 to 12 years to a woman's perceived age.

Wrinkles aren't the only sign of ageing, lack of tone and luminosity are giveaways too, so it's no wonder that spending on efforts to correct the impression of dull or mottled skin is on the rise.

The reasons for so-called hyper pigmentation are diverse; sun exposure is at the top of the list, but Dermalogica reminds that medications including the contraceptive pill can lead to patchy markings (ask your doctor if your medication is photo-sensitive and if it is, be doubly careful in the sun). Pregnancy is another cause, and even stress can ring your face. Perfume, if worn in the sun, may also cause darkening over time to your neck just under your ears, so spritz your hair or clothes instead of your exposed skin. The inside of your wrists is a safe spot

Topical treatments won't cure severe pigmentation, such as birthmarks, bad scarring or darker age spots, where lasers can be effective, but for less entrenched damage, surface application, especially of the sort of products that discourage melanin formation can make a noticeable difference. The trick is to use something that isn't detrimental to the skin. Dermalogica's Emma Hobson warns there are some scary products available overseas and on the internet. What you're after is something that "Helps skin look vital, more even, more youthful."

NB: Some of our featured product comes from ranges developed especially for Asian skins, but most address pigmentation concerns across the board.

1 Elizabeth Arden Prevage White Concentrated Brightening Serum $225

Ground-breaking anti-age treatment Prevage gets a shot of extra skin savers to add to antioxidant Idebenone. Soy Ferulate and Vitamin C boost radiance in this serum, best used in conjunction with Prevage moisturisers.

2 Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Powerfoliant2, from a complete care kit $412

Dermalogica says pigmentation production is multi-step and treatment needs to be to. It advises a consultation and in-salon treatment first, followed by a home course of 10-12 weeks and maintenance with serum. Its ChromaWhite range, due out in May, includes algae extracts, Vitamin C and natural acids. This exfoliant from the kit is a smoothing powder-to-liquid formulation which readies skin for other products.

3 Shiseido White Lucent Intensive Brightening Mask $112

These face-shaped paper masks are designed to be worn for 10 minutes to brighten and hydrate the skin, and target dark spots and freckles. Recommended for all skin types, particularly dull, tired complexions. Part of a full range of skincare developed in Japan containing plant extracts to refine skin texture, Vitamin C to reduce dullness and a complex to diminish spotting. White Lucent Brightening Powder Foundation ($60) helps disguise pigmentation and enhances luminosity.

4 Estee Lauder Cyber White EX Extra Brightening Gentle Cleanser $62

Cyber White was specifically developed for Asian skins which the company says are delicate, making them prone to irritation which can lead to the over-production of melanin. The range includes a sunscreen and aims to deal with three different kinds of dark spots: age spots, small surface marks and barely visible spots just below the surface. Has Estee Lauder's typical lovely texture and fragrance.

5 Za True White Night Cream $28

This gel-light night cream is designed to help diminish spots and acne scars and promote fair skin. It's Vitamin C rich and ideal for younger skin. Za also makes the nifty Spot Free ($26), an individual sachet containing a gel sheet. Apply for 10 minutes to discoloured areas such as spots or acne scars.

6 Nimue Pigmentation Spot Treatment $36

This clever little brush pen allows you to paint directly on to small problem areas.

Stockists: Leading pharmacies and department stores, except Dermalogica, available from Dermalogica Albany and selected salons www.dermalogica.co.nz. Nimue stockists Ph 0800 144 562