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A few years ago serums were secret operatives, rarely seen, highly prized, called into the never-ending fight against ageing only by the most well-resourced campaigners. Now they're everywhere, leading the charge with support from battalions of intensive day and night creams and phalanxes of eye and lip agents. Serums are among the most potent of cosmetics. They soak deep into the skin, giving it an extra boost of antioxidants to help withstand the rigours of time. Used once or twice daily, usually at night, but sometimes under day cream, a serum should feel like a tonic. If it just feels like another layer rather than an extra dimension, try something else.
It can be a good idea to do a patch test before using, as reactions (breakouts, swelling, prickling, redness or flakiness) can occur, but are rare. (Elizabeth Arden advises those using Prevage to test on the forearm and Neutrogena and RoC say those with sensitive skins should start off using serum every other day). I've found serums to be soothing, not problematic, and am a convert. Here's a sampling:
1 Elizabeth Arden Good Morning Skin Serum $69
Aims to help makeup go on more smoothly. Its blend of Vitamin A and botanical extracts was described by our guinea pig as being "gorgeous" and leaving her skin "wonderfully smooth". The fact that it is also free of fragrance, emulsifiers and preservatives was a plus with morning use a pleasure. Intervene and particularly Prevage are the brand's step-ups.
2 Estee Lauder Perfectionist (CP+) Wrinkle Lifting Serum $130
Designed to work on lines, wrinkles and age spots, our tester couldn't stop running her fingers across her skin after applying it because it made her skin feel "like silk and wonderfully rehydrated". Contains skin smoothing poly-collagen peptides. Like all serums, it should be applied before a moisturiser. Estee Lauder's Advanced Night Repair is another serum with a legion of fans.
3 Murad Resurgence, Age Diffusing Serum
The signature treatment of this clinic-only range is packed with the buzzword ingredients - alpha-hydroxy acids, peptides, phytoestrogens - and does seem to reduce the appearance of surface wrinkles. The claims are that with the Environmental Shield range (a starter set of three products now costs $162) you're building up a protective barrier against photo-ageing while nourishing your skin with Vitamin C and more.
4 RoC Retin-Ox+ Serum Max $63
Could those skin-mad Frenchwoman be wrong? This intensive anti-wrinkle serum is a top-selling pharmacy product there and is now doing well here, being comparatively well priced. Contains Retinol AR complex (Vitamin A, the skin's friend) and as well as a smoothing effect it feels moisturising. Should not be used with other products containing Retinol.
5 Dr LeWinns Ultra R4 Rejuvenation Serum $84.90
Peptides (cellular growth nudgers) come into play in this pleasing serum said to tackle age-related collagen depletion and UV damage. Harnesses plankton and root extracts. Skin feels de-stressed and, teamed with the rest of the Ultra R4 range, this is a good option for women in their 40s. The R4 Regenerative Night Cream smells and feels lovely and won't break the bank.
6 La Mer Hydrating Infusion $220
Unlike the other serums this didn't leave the skin feeling as smooth as silk, perhaps because it's more about getting results.The science behind La Mer, originated by a Nasa physicist, is based on "deconstructed water", delivering moisture and nutrients to the skin cells. Designed to give radiance and reduce discolouration. Our tester felt her skin definitely had a more healthy glow after using it regularly. In store next month.
7 Chanel Precision Sublimage Serum, Essential Regenerating Concentrate $520
If packaging wins the prize, then Chanel can't be beaten. But inside this lovely signature square bottle is an extract from the Vanilla Planifolia plant, said to smooth, tone and leave skin glowing. This has a creamy fluid texture that absorbs well, but I'm more taken with the range's divine Sublimage Masque.
8 Dr Hauschka Regenerating Serum $145
For middle-aged skins, and with botanical extracts (quince seed, kalanchoe, red clover and honey) this clear fluid smooths, revitalises and regulates moisture balance. Feels soothing, on face, neck and decollete and is meant to be used in conjunction with this respected German company's Regenerating Day Cream.
9 Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Serum $37.95
Smells a bit like coffee and has a medicinal creamy gel look to it, a sign perhaps that the effort has gone into adding the real-deal Retin SR, and anti-oxidant multi-vitamins rather than lots of pretty perfumed smoothers. Said to fill in and smooth out wrinkles for a more youthful appearance with daily use. I like the no nonsense approach and the affordable range includes an SPF 15 anti-wrinkle day cream, and night and eye creams.
10 Clarins Extra-Firming Tightening Lift Botanical Serum $110
Feels and looks good from first application, this apricot-coloured gel is almost like a light masque, smoothing and tightening. This oil-free botanically based serum includes plant sugars, hibiscus extract and inca peanut seed and is meant to be used in conjunction with the Clarins Extra-Firming Day Care range for maturing skin.
* Products from leading department stores and pharmacies, Clarins from selected salons also and Neutrogena also from larger supermarkets. Murad exclusive to Caci Medispas.
