NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Lifestyle

How to roast your Easter eggs

Daily Telegraph UK
2 Apr, 2015 07:00 PM6 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Photo / Thinkstock

Photo / Thinkstock

Laura Freeman puts to the test a once-popular Elizabethan recipe involving a hot spit and pepper.

A roasted egg, according to the recipe, is cooked to perfection when it begins to vibrate on its skewer. So far, my eggs have done everything except vibrate.

They have cracked, split, oozed, smashed, buckled, dribbled, shattered and rolled off their spits into the fire. My boots have been spattered in shell shrapnel and there's yolk in my hair.

They have not - yet - exploded, as the recipe warned they might, but there are still half a dozen left in the basket.

There is a very good reason why we no longer cook eggs by roasting them on spits. Compared with boiling, scrambling, poaching, frying and coddling, spit-roasting an egg is a volcanic business.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

It was once, however, common for cooks to spit-roast hens' eggs over a roaring fire.

David Walddon, a food historian, has unearthed a fascinating 15th-century recipe for spit-roasted eggs, as they would have been cooked in Elizabethan England.

He has written about his discovery in the spring issue of Petits Propos Culinaires, the food journal founded by the great cookery writer Elizabeth David in 1979.

In his essay, Walddon explains that the method comes from a manuscript written by the Italian chef Martino de Rossi in the 1460s and translated into English in 1598.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The basic method, though it varies from translation to translation, is this: heat a spit until very hot, pierce the eggs with the spit, roast them over the fire, and serve.

There are some helpful hints in the 1598 translation - "heat your spit very whote"; "rost them like meat" - but otherwise the egg enthusiast is left to make it up as they go along.

With Easter only a week away, and bored with boiled eggs, I thought I might put Martino's recipe to the skewer.

His instructions are brief and there is little help to be found elsewhere. The doughty Mrs Beeton in her Everyday Cookery has recipes for every sort of egg, from eggs and brandy (for invalids), to egg soup, eggs pickled in vinegar and eggs scrambled with oysters. But she says nothing about eggs on spits.

Discover more

Lifestyle

Meet the real Willy Wonkas: inside the colourful world of Cadbury

22 Mar 09:30 PM
Lifestyle

Hatch a plan to get those eggs

27 Mar 06:00 PM
Lifestyle

The good and bad of Easter treats

02 Apr 04:00 PM

Nor does Larousse Gastronomique, the vast French cookery compendium. There are 29 pages of densely typed entries on eggs in the 1961 edition, including recipes for hard-boiled lapwing eggs, eggs boiled in veal stock and eggs deep-fat-fried and served with bacon a l'Americaine. Not a word, though, about spitted ones.

There is, however, a note on roasted eggs in Food in England, Dorothy Hartley's magisterial survey of English cooking and eating habits.

"Curiously," she writes, "eggs were not often boiled before the 16th century; they baked well in the soft ash of the wood fire."

These fire-baked eggs were rarely eaten more than one or two at a time. "The generally accepted opinion was that 'one egg is gentility, two sufficient and more excess'."

Another early source, quoted by Hartley, warns: "All eggs hard roasted be grosse meat." In other words, very filling.

But Hartley says nothing on how to successfully roast eggs - only that you shouldn't eat more than two.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

For me, even one would be a good start.

After an hour of blowing on the barbecue (in the best British tradition, it has been raining most of the afternoon), there is a blazing fire.

The method given in Petits Propos Culinaires advises heating a skewer in the fire until very hot. Then, holding an egg in a gloved hand, gently but firmly wiggling the point of the skewer into the egg and carefully pushing it through to the other side.

This, hot skewer in hand, I manage to do. The next part proves more difficult.

The method states that you must seal the albumen (the white) and yolk inside the shell, stopping any leaking, by thrusting the egg straight into the fire. There, it should be rotated continuously, until it starts to vibrate.

Easier said than done.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The first of my box of a dozen eggs spewed hot albumen and yolk from either end before cracking, splitting and rolling off the spit into the kindling.

The second I dropped, splashing yolk over my feet and trouser cuffs.

The third shattered as the skewer broke the shell. The fourth cracked over the coals, where the yolk set solid.

No wonder one early translator of the Martino manuscript felt moved to add: "This is a stupid invention and an absurd game for cooks."

Then, just as I was thinking longingly of scrambled eggs on toast, the fifth egg came good. The glowing skewer went straight through and the egg neither leaked nor slid off the end of its spit.

After four minutes, the shell had turned black, and a small bead of amber yolk had formed where the skewer met the shell. While the egg wasn't vibrating, it had started whistling like a kettle on a hob.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The charred shell peeled away to reveal an egg white as soft as a toasted marshmallow and a golden-jelly yolk.

The taste was smoky, meaty and delicious. All the more so for being eaten in drizzling rain.

Four of the remaining eggs leaked, collapsed, split or were immolated on the coals. Three came out with perfectly blackened shells and went straight into waiting egg cups.

The Martino recipe recommends eating the eggs "spiced". Since pepper was an Elizabethan obsession - in 1594, 1,500 bags of pepper from the East Indies, each weighing 200lb, were consumed in London alone - I had my second egg liberally peppered.

I could not have managed a third. One egg was indeed gentility, two sufficient, three would have been excess.

A boiled egg cooked in a saucepan is certainly easier, less messy, less wasteful and far less dangerous. Do not try Martino's recipe without good, thick gloves or gauntlets and a very long skewer.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

You certainly wouldn't spit-roast an egg for breakfast each morning.

But in the week before Easter, on a chilly, blustery day, it is well worth risking an explosion (or two) for one perfect roast egg, spitted over a fire and eaten with plenty of pepper, preferably from a favourite china egg cup.

Elizabethan eats

A feast day game pie

Containing a whole roe-deer, a gosling, three capons, six chickens, 10 pigeons and one young rabbit

Hedgehogs and Sea Urchins

Minced pork, spiced with ginger and mace, and formed into a ball or oblong before being cooked in a buttered pan and studded with silvered almonds to look like the quills of a hedgehog or sea urchin

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Collops of Marchpane bacon

Marzipan, coloured and shaped to look like rashers of bacon

Lambswool

A blend of hot cider, spices and apples heated until the liquid forms a white "woolly" head

Eel pie

Slices of eel rolled in saffron and verjuice - the acidic extract of crab apples - baked in a pastry crust

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Pears and vine leaves

Pears and vine leaves poached in cider, spiced with ginger and cloves. Served with custard and sugar

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
Lifestyle

They’re gentle. They’re seasonal. They’re soft boy cooks

22 Jun 06:00 AM
Premium
Lifestyle

Dealing with the Sunday scaries? Here’s how to address your anxiety

22 Jun 03:00 AM
Lifestyle

Suzy Cato on overcoming redundancy, helping children, and why she's never met her biological father

21 Jun 07:00 PM

Help for those helping hardest-hit

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
They’re gentle. They’re seasonal. They’re soft boy cooks

They’re gentle. They’re seasonal. They’re soft boy cooks

22 Jun 06:00 AM

New York Times: These charismatic cooks are a counter to harder-edge chefs.

Premium
Dealing with the Sunday scaries? Here’s how to address your anxiety

Dealing with the Sunday scaries? Here’s how to address your anxiety

22 Jun 03:00 AM
Suzy Cato on overcoming redundancy, helping children, and why she's never met her biological father

Suzy Cato on overcoming redundancy, helping children, and why she's never met her biological father

21 Jun 07:00 PM
Premium
Instagram wants Gen Z. What does Gen Z want from Instagram?

Instagram wants Gen Z. What does Gen Z want from Instagram?

21 Jun 06:00 PM
Inside Leigh Hart’s bonkers quest to hand-deliver a SnackaChangi chip to every Kiwi
sponsored

Inside Leigh Hart’s bonkers quest to hand-deliver a SnackaChangi chip to every Kiwi

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP