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Home / Lifestyle

Honourable munchings

By Ewan Mcdonald
12 Dec, 2005 07:16 PM5 mins to read

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Oh, we're not high-brow here. Well, the Viva Diva is, but only since she moved to Titirangi and started getting them plucked and coloured at some chi-chi little salon in the village.

The Diva: You're a fine one to talk. Last month you were prattling on about your trip to Sydney and eating at the world's fourth best restaurant.

The Writer: Only because your budget didn't stretch to numbers one, two and three.

The Diva: Could we get on with the year's Eating Out? And not too much of flash stuff with froths of this and cappuccinos of whatever. Food that real people eat.

The way we eat - as opposed to what we eat - was a theme this year.

In February we asked leading chefs for the trends in 2005. Chandelier's Joe Boreham pointed the finger at lifestyle.

"When the 7.30pm-9.30pm meal does not fit into your work or social schedule, your dining experience changes. Tonight it's supper after the opera; tomorrow appetisers and nibbles - grazing or sharing around the table. Next week, a 10-course degustation with business associates."

Prime's Sean Armstrong forecast tapas. Soul's Peter Thornley: French cuisine and organic produce. White's Geoff Scott: Better meat, more seafood and shellfish. Fewer carbohydrates, lighter sauces.

The more things change, the more things change. Of those chefs, not one is cooking at the same oven. And not only them:

Prue Barton and David Griffiths came back from Craggy Range, sold Vinnie's and moved to Sydney. Scott relaunched Vinnies. Simon Gault and Shane Yardley said arrivederci to Gault@George. Gault renewed acquaintance with Euro, he and Yardley punching a hole in the wall to join the kitchen with its wharfmate, Pasha.

The George hiccupped, then started to find its feet when Jeremy Schmidt returned from making gourmet sausages in Te Aroha. Kate Fay and Jeremy Turner of Cibo bought Rice and wisely didn't change it. Too much.

Richard and Charmaine Lewis sold Bowmans; Carlos and Angie Atkinson took the Mt Eden landmark in a new direction. Paramount aka Siren - wrong place, wrong time. Chris Upton and Sean Armstrong handed over the Prime spot to Mark Thomas. VBG fell into the arms of three of its regulars.

Gastropubs sprouted everywhere, for the trend was not so much eating out, more grazing. Tapas. Don't ask us to explain it. My take is, if you're eating little plates anywhere than svelte Dida's, La Zeppa or its big sister Vivace, or CAC, it's probably antipasto. Or something that fills the gap between the gym and the movies.

Best dining moment

Tetsuya's blue cheese icecream

Worst dining moment

Blood on the tracks, shirt and trousers at Wildfire

Most unexpected dining moment

Home-made birthday cake from the next table at Vino Vino

Most fun you can have while eating

Nibbles, $4 wine at Pizza Pizza, Queen St

So last year ...

Roast duck - apart from Euro's new take

So this year ...
Salt and pepper squid

Words we don't want to hear next year
* Gastropub
* Ethnic restaurant

But since you've mentioned it
* Ariake for Japanese
* Oh Calcutta for Indian

Best foodie/wino movie
Sideways

Smart marketing
Can you serve stingray if you call it "skate wings"?

Music abuse
Kenny Rogers, The Gambler and Islands in the Stream, Chandelier

Jinxed destination
Summer monsoon at Te Whau. Spring gale at Vino Vino. Remind me, what is so cool about Waiheke?

Whatever happened to?
Menus based on low-carb diets.

Looking forward to
Banque's verandah bar and grill on summer evenings.

Best use of tofu
* Deep-fried at Tanuki, Queen St (source: the Viva Diva)
* None (source: me)

THE TOP TABLES

1. The French Cafe Yeah, we've been saying so for a couple of years but Simon Wright keeps pulling the tricks out of the oven and Creghan Molloy Wright keeps charming the punters and satisfying the oenophiles out front (and that is not dirty). But watch out for ...

2. Euro Now, that's got your attention. You thought it was a Hooray Henry steak bar on the wharf? Simon Gault and Shane Yardley took over the kitchens a few months back, and their summer menu changes the currency at Euro. Get there while it's hot.

3. O'Connell St Bistro Looks like Paris. Feels like Paris. So it's appropriate to say that the little inner-city dining-room has je ne sais quoi. Some might grumble that Chris Upton's tiny gem would benefit if it had more than 12 tables. No, it wouldn't.

4. The Grove The Parnell Princess - who's moved out West - thought this wonderful. Can't disagree. Michael and Annette Dearth were smart to lure a way-cool chef (Michael Meredith) and to pay California-level attention to their wait-staff.

5. Cibo A man of great taste (apart from supporting Everton and not Juventus) reckoned this was his most enjoyable evening of the year. He'd paid, so we must respect his opinion. And our experience.

Plus, in no particular order Opium, Otto's, Pasha, Tribeca, Vinnie's, White.

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