KEY POINTS:
Nobilo is no more. After becoming another star in the Constellation wine empire, the company has lost the name of the family that founded it in favour of that of its international owner, becoming Constellation New Zealand.
For some, this is another sad sign of the
loss of New Zealand's winemaking heritage and control to international drinks conglomerates. Some estimates say 85 per cent of the country's wine industry is now in foreign hands, although New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Philip Gregan
considers this kind of figure "way off the mark". His organisation's calculations showing tonnes crushed by foreign enterprises as being closer to 50 per cent of the total. New Zealand Winegrowers is also quick to point out that about 55 per cent of the country's grape production comes from independent growers.
Whatever the exact figure, it is clear that ownership of most of the country's largest wine companies has gone overseas this decade. Our largest wine company, Montana became part of French drinks behemoth Pernod Ricard and was renamed Pernod Ricard NZ. Kim Crawford and Nobilo have become the New Zealand arm of Constellation, the world's largest wine company. Matua Valley was absorbed by the Foster's drinks empire, Wither Hills was bought by Lion Nathan and a smaller jewel in New Zealand's wine crown, Cloudy Bay is owned by luxury group LVMH.
This recent international interest has been spurred by New Zealand's success with sauvignon blanc in particular, which has become a must-have in many wine groups' portfolios. As the wine industry matures, some view foreign ownership as inevitable and positive in providing the capital needed to build on this success and take its wineries to the next level.
There are still many who feel foreign ownership is not necessarily the next or best step, voicing concerns over their priorities and profits going overseas.
But as New Zealand's international success continues and a new wave of mid-sized companies expands rapidly, like it or not, we'll be seeing more of our wineries go the same way.
An independent selection
RIPE RHONE
Reserve Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone, France 2006 $16.95
A chunky little Rhone with bright ripe berry fruit, earthy spicy undertones, meat-friendly tannins and more richness than you'd expect at this lowly price level. Made by Chateauneuf du Pape-based family owned and run operation, Alain Jaume et Fils.
From Wine Direct.
PLUSH AND PLUMMY
Mills Reef Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Cabernet Merlot 2007 $22.95
Plenty of smooth dense plummy fruit and a dark chocolatey depth, with a lick of tannins and lots of spicy oak.
From First Glass, Point Wines, Village Winery, Herne Bay Cellars, Mairangi Bay Fine Wines, Milford Cellar Select, Branos, Greenhithe Liquor Centre.
AGEING GRACEFULLY
Black Estate Waipara Chardonnay 2004 $29.95
This lively example is ageing very gracefully. From Black Estate, it has a rich fleshy palate of stone fruit underpinned by tangy citrus and mineral leading to a long fresh nutty toasty finish.
From Caro's, Point Wines, Wine Vault, Millers, West Harbour Wines and Spirits, Don Johnson's, Branos, some Liquorlands.