Hollywood stylist impressed by NZ fashion design

Cameron Silver

International stylist Cameron Silver -- listed by Time Magazine as one of the 25 most influential people in fashion -- was in the front seats for New Zealand Fashion Week's first day of catwalks and couture yesterday.

The day one schedule included two of New Zealand fashion design's most accomplished names internationally: Zambesi and Trelise Cooper.

Silver said it was clear why these labels had managed to crack the international market.

"Trelise Cooper's lingerie was exceptional."

He said Cooper's bold, individual style was probably for women who already had an extensive wardrobe.

"If you are a women who has everything, you probably don't have this," referring to the seductive, chaste, French-styled lingerie revealed yesterday in Cooper's Autumn and Winter 2006 show at Auckland's Viaduct Marine Village.

Cooper showed pieces from her three labels; Trelise Cooper Lingerie ; Cooper by Trelise, a collection of folksy, military, pleated flounces and plaid tailored coats; and Trelise Cooper, a dark, gothic range emerging from the dry ice and wrought iron gates on stage.

Cooper is one of New Zealand's most successful fashion designers, having shown at all five previous fashion weeks and exporting to the USA, UK, Italy, Singapore and Australia.

Silver, who is credited with creating the worldwide craze for "vintage" fashion and a stylist for Hollywood's "A" list, was also impressed with the Zambesi show held at Auckland's Saint James Theatre last night.

"[Zambesi] has a very international feel to it. The other shows were more frilly and feminine, but [Zambesi] had more attitude -- it definitely has its own personality."

Zambesi designer, Elisabeth Findlay, brought to the stage her women and men's Winter 2006 collection of gothic coats, figure-hugging grunge suits, with infusions of bright red velvet and smoky pink "couture bubble skirts", tunics and satin dresses.

The return of the 1950s bubble skirt, modernised for the 21st century catwalk, was a recurring theme throughout the day's shows.

Zambesi models sauntered to the rock tunes of New Zealand band Pluto, who joined them on stage.

The Auckland label, first established in 1979, won a $32,000 Fashion Week export award on Monday night for international travel to boost their export business and international profile.

- NZPA