Max Williams of Suburbs U12 Reserves scores a try. His mum, Angela, entered this photo in the Herald's RWC 2011 photo competition. Terms and conditions: nzherald.co.nz/promotions. Enter: photocomp@nzherald.co.nz. Photo / Wayne Dowd
Tristan Ogden discovers clubrooms around the country are sharing the RWC 2011 spirit, Kiwi-style.
From the famous to the inconspicuous, there are hundreds of rugby clubs dotted around New Zealand making up the 26 provincial unions, each with its own distinct character and traditions. And after spending a few weeks unearthing what grassroots footy is all about, I discovered that - besides a mutual passion for our national sport - these clubs share common ground (and I'm not referring to pitches) in many other ways.
On sidelines and in clubrooms, I was told repeatedly about the importance of history, accessibility, family and community - in other words, what gives heartland rugby its heart.
I first experienced this at Ponsonby RFC, where I was greeted by rows of former players literally elevated to legendary status with their framed portraits hanging above me along the girders.
Established in 1874, it's Auckland Rugby Union's oldest, most successful club and recently reinforced its reputation as a powerhouse when the premieres held the Gallaher Shield aloft for the eighth consecutive time - an unprecedented achievement.
The Under 12s also ground out a win in their championship and as I waited for their prizegiving to kick off at the club grounds in Western Springs, I bumped into the captain of the social team (and ex prem), Mike Dyson.
Raising his voice above the boisterous crowd that spilled through the doors opening on to the adjacent Auckland Speedway, Mike enthused: "There's a good spirit here with a diverse mix of people. It's great the community feel still remains."
Traditionally a working class club, it now embraces a broader demographic reflecting the rising real estate prices in the area, which has forced many Ponies (Pony is the moniker given to a member) to move away.
However, despite their relocation to other parts of Auckland, and even the country, Mike said they had remained loyal to Ponsonby RFC and in his 24 years at the club not too much had changed.
"Once a Pony, always a Pony."
You would think a club that inspires this kind of loyalty would be exclusive but in reality anyone can become a Pony- even Australians, such as expat Brett Charlton who joined when he moved across the ditch a few years ago.
"Everyone chips in whether it's playing, refereeing or doing the accounts.
"We're part of a family - if your kids run off you know they'll be safe," he said.
Outside at least a hundred youngsters had transformed the tarmac into a bustling school courtyard with an abundance of rugby balls rising and falling in the air as if projectiles in a disjointed Mexican wave.
Around me the scene inside was no less chaotic. At the bar the queue was 10 or 12 deep and never seemed to recede as the club manager, stalwart and now bartender Ian Derbidge hurriedly poured beer and wine into plastic jugs and cups.
Across the table, Under 12s coach Andrew Holt received congratulatory pats on the arm and "good on ya mates" from people, some of them with their faces painted in the blue/black team colours, acknowledging his success.
Then through the throng I noticed something unusual, orange wedges on the bar top, and at that moment half-expected to hear a referee's whistle calling halftime so everyone could take a breather.
It was in total contrast to the subdued atmosphere of the Rural Rugby Exhibition at the Kauri Museum in Matakohe, a small settlement in the Kaipara District roughly two hours north of Auckland.
The exhibition was set up after three weeks of solid work and six month's research.
Museum CEO Bet Nelly said: "It simply wouldn't have been possible without the contributions of residents and the rugby clubs of Otamatea, who heard about it through word-of-mouth."
Among the memorabilia, there are team photographs dating back to 1909 that chart the history of not only grassroots clubs such as Maungaturoto, Northern Wairoa and Ruawai, but also the region in general.
"The stories that come out of this are amazing. We are teaching the history of our people through rugby. They just have to look at the photos." One photograph in particular stands out.
It's of the 1913 Maungaturoto Railway Club team, taken in what is thought to be the Bickerstaffe railway tunnel. It features local Ned Rintoul, who in 1917 was killed at Passchendaele aged just 22.
"Through this exhibition, you can see how these areas lost whole generations because of the two World Wars. That's why military medals are on display here too," said Bet.
I discovered that just three days before Ned lost his life, Dave Gallaher, captain of the 1905 "Originals" All Blacks team, was killed, probably on the same battlefield. Today his plot is only a stone's throw away from Ned's at Nine Elms British Cemetery in Belgium.
As well as being a soldier and an All Black, Dave Gallaher was also a Pony and subsequently had the Premier Auckland Club Trophy named in his honour, which I saw mounted proudly on the wall at the Ponsonby RFC.
Like the stories told through the Kauri Museum exhibition, the history of Northcote Birkenhead RFC is on display throughout the club, which is nestled behind the Birkenhead RSA. Downstairs in the Cote Hanga bar, there's an Aladdin's Cave of memorabilia including faded blazers, caps, a patchwork of flags on the ceiling and even a chandelier made entirely of Lion Red cans.
And there's not too many clubs who can say former prime minister, Robert Muldoon - who controversially allowed the infamous 1981 Springbok Tour to go ahead - contributed to their collection.
The Cote, as its affectionately called by its members, first opened its doors in 1929 .
Club manager Karen Jones said: "It's is open to whoever, whenever. Our roots are blue collar working class but we have a cross-section of people making up our membership so we cover all bases. We try to be as inclusive as possible.
"Many people think they can't come in unless they know someone who plays rugby. This isn't true. You don't need an invite, we're always open to anyone."
For the past 22 years Karen and her husband Kieran Jones, both originally from the South Island, have been running the place and trying to create a down-to-earth, social atmosphere with a country pub feel.
"We're like a big family. Kids start here, go to high school and return to play in the seniors. It gives them somewhere to go. We engage them not only on the rugby field but also off it.
"They might play on different teams during the day but they all socialise together off the field because they wear the same yellow and maroon shirt," she said.
Northcote prop Stephen Bowles emigrated from South Africa in 2008 "made a couple of mates at Birkenhead College" but it wasn't until he joined the club that he really began to find his place.
"Over the last two years I've gotten to know the punters here. Now I'm part of the family. Everyone socialises together - you get a feel for each other and develop a strong bond," he says. His meteoric rise as a prop and his obvious prowess for pouring pints at the club explain why he's such a familiar face.
Kieran says he offered part-time work to rugby players such as Stephen, students and anyone else who could use a few extra dollars. Which begged the question: how does the club make its money?
"We don't have a major corporate sponsor so a little bit from everyone goes a long way. A lot of our income comes from functions," Keiran said.
It's an effective way to raise funds considering the club has three fully equipped bars over two floors.
When I visited, the upstairs, including the Snow White Lounge, which is dedicated to club legend Leo "Snow" White, was being used to host a fundraiser for the Long Bay College First XV rugby tour next year.
Their coach, South African Leon Fourie, remarked they were looking for a club that had outstanding facilities and had found it. Of course, Kieran and Karen said they were happy to help out the community.
Which is an attitude that seems to be shared by the people behind rugby clubs all over New Zealand.
More heartland rugby to share
To go and do:
Northcote-Birkenhead Rugby Union and Sports Club
Recreation Drive, Birkenhead.
Super Sunday: big screen Sunday matches from Rugby World Cup 2011 with themed national and spot prizes. Adults $10, Children $5. Ph (09) 480 9810, mob 027 277 3520, email northbirkrfc@xtra.co.nz
Ponsonby Rugby Football Club
1 Stadium Rd, Western Springs.
See Samoa open training sessions September 19-25, 9am-10am. Game Zone on the
club's big screen. Ticket-only from 6pm. Memorabilia tours also available at the club. Ph (09) 846 9954, mob 021 773 960 or email rugby@ponsonbyrugby.co.nz
The Kauri Museum
5 Church Rd, Matakohe.
Ph (09) 431 7417. Daily 9am-5pm. Rural rugby exhibition until November 14
Ake Ake Kia Kaha - the spirit of Maori rugby
Auckland Museum
10am-5pm daily. No exhibition charge. Auckland Museum, Auckland Domain, Parnell. Personal interviews, photographs and memorabilia
Rugby, Haka, Hangi Festival
September 20-October 1. A friendly game of rugby, haka lessons and a traditional Maori hangi. Various locations throughout Hawke's Bay. Free entry.
Oranges at Halftime - Rugby and the Kiwi Experience
Till October 16. Rugby in Kiwi culture touring exhibition. Venues nationwide. Free entry
Waitangi Welcomes the World Festival
October 18-20. Treaty Grounds, Bay of Islands. Events celebrating Maori and rugby
cultures. Adults $25 per day, kids $12 per day.
The Rugby Comedy Festival
Rugby comics and former rugby internationals entertain. October 22, Aotea Centre,
Auckland. From $79 plus booking fees.
Be in to win
Union: The Heart Of Rugby Exhibition, powered by TelstraClear, is a unique collection
of more than 100 of the greatest rugby images taken by the world's leading sports photographers, with audio visual displays and player insights. Vote for your favourite photo in the People's Choice Award.
Open daily (till October 28) 10am-5pm Auckland Town Hall. (Adults $13.50, Children $7.50).
The accompanying book, by Paul Thomas, is published by Penguin.
Weekend Life has two sets of a family pass (2 adults, 2 children) and the Union book to give away (value $95). To enter, go to nzherald.co.nz/weekend, enter your details and the keyword Union by midnight on Wednesday September 21.
As many as four rookies could force their way into Scott Robertson's All Blacks squad.