Good Taste: Raise a glass

Julicher Riesling 2008, $19.95. Photo / Supplied

Toast. Is it: A) Bread browned on both sides by exposure to heat B) A call to raise glasses in honour of a person or thing C) A Martinborough festival for 10,000 New Zealand food and wine lovers D) All of the above?

Answer: D. Next week, it's Toast Martinborough time.

The Wairarapa town of 1300 inhabitants is preparing for a 10,000-strong crowd to descend upon it to drink pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, followed by some wine-fuelled dancing.

It must be the only place in the world where it's acceptable to wear a wine glass on a string around your neck in public.

However, it's never acceptable to dance like your dad.

This year's event sold out in 15 minutes so if you haven't already bought tickets, you'll have to wait until next year.

However, if you don't like crowds, try Martinborough at a quieter time of year.

The pint-sized town is just an hour's drive from Wellington. Approaching Martinborough, there are fields and fields of sheep - and a couple of alpacas.

The vineyards start to appear only once you're in Martinborough and it seems my dad's allotment is bigger than some of the parcels. Small is beautiful here - the region produces less than two per cent of New Zealand's total production. Yet pinot noir grown on Martinborough's deep, free-draining, alluvial soils has put it on the world wine map.

Sauvignon blanc and chardonnay are the most popular white varieties, but haven't yet reached pinot's world-beating heights.

Producers that aren't in my recommendation list today but are worth seeking out for your own festival include Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyard, Murdoch James, Dry River, and Escarpment.

Wines of the week

Julicher Riesling 2008, $19.95, julicher.co.nz
Martinborough is better known for its sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, but this riesling stands out from the crowd. Appealing notes of citrus, fresh green apple and a splash of kerosene on the nose. Light bodied with good concentration and a zesty finish.

Schubert Rose 2009, $25, schubert.co.nz
It's rare that you find a pale, salmon-coloured rose in New Zealand but Stuttgart-born Kai Schubert has done it. It's bone dry, lean and elegant with restrained red berry fruit and citrus. Hooray for Germans in New Zealand.

Craggy Range Pinot Noir 2009, Te Muna Rd Vineyard, $39.95 craggyrange.com
This has pure damson fruit and an attractive earthy note. It's silky in the mouth and rather elegant.

The tannins have appealing grip on the finish. A real crowd pleaser.