Good Taste: New era of extravagance

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2007 ($40.95, Liquorland). Photo / Supplied

Bling is back. Forget the economic downturn, job losses and the housing slump - the world's most ostentatious and eye-wateringly priced champagne has finally landed on New Zealand shores, and it's the ultimate in extravagance for those who can afford it.

The arrival of Armand de Brignac's Ace of Spades Champagne at $600 a pop suggests there is optimism in the air. Like me, you may have been tightening your belts on the drinking front, buying what's on special, but with six cases of the blingy bubbles sold in a first week, we may be entering a new era of keeping up with the Joneses.

The Ace of Spades bottle is a cross between a tankard and a Christmas decoration. Sold in shiny gold and adorned with four pewter aces of spades, it isn't what you'd call modest.

It came to the world's attention when it featured in rapper Jay-Z's music video Show Me What You Got (no, I don't know how it goes, either). The champagne immediately acquired cult status, other rappers followed suit and so did their fans.

Ace of Spades has since gone on to win acclaim from the world's top wine critics as well as a hip-hop star, so it's not all fur coat and no knickers. Still, most of us wouldn't dream of spending $600 on a bottle of bubbly.

In anticipation of the festive season, this week's recommendations are slightly more affordable, including champagnes and ``methode traditionelle'' sparklers, which use the same winemaking process as champagne producers but are made outside the Champagne region.

By coincidence, they're all blanc de blancs, literally white of whites, which means they're 100 per cent chardonnay rather than the more standard pinot noir-chardonnay blend.

Allan Scott Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ($29.90, Glengarry's)
The packaging leaves something to be desired, but this sparkler is mouthwatering, with baked apple, vanilla and toasty aromas.

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2007 ($40.95, Liquorland)
An elegant sparkler with lovely weight. Aromas of nuts and apple; creamy, toasty notes and fresh citrus on the finish.

Champagne Joseph Perrier, Cuvee Royale Blanc de Blancs NV ($89.99 Bacchus Remuera, La Barrique, Hauraki Corner Cellars)

As sexy as Nigella with alluring baked apple, citrus and fresh pastry aromas, alongside elegant almond and vanilla notes.

* Detours wine columnist Rebecca Gibb will be holding wine workshops on Saturday, December 4 at Ponsonby's Longroom. The introductory course runs from 10.30am to 3.30pm and includes 10 wines, a two-course lunch and a tasting booklet. Normally $175 a person, Rebecca is offering Detours readers a special deal: buy one ticket and get the second half-price. Visit rebeccagibb.com/workshops. Email info@rebeccagibb.com to get your code, quoting Detours.