Good taste: How bad can they be?

2007 Taylors 80 Acres, 2006 Domaine Viret and 2007 Millton Te Arai Vineyard. Photo / Supplied

"How bad could they be?" Chris Carrad asked himself when he was planning to import some of the weirdest wines on the planet to New Zealand.

The wines come from Domaine Viret in France. And the reason this West Auckland wine retailer had doubts about the wines is that they are unfined, unfiltered and, most bizarrely of all, unsulphured. Are these wines made by mavericks? Absolutely.

Whether we understand it, loathe it or merely accept it, sulphur in wine performs the vital role of preventing oxidation. Try as they may, organic winemakers who attempt to make quality sulphur-free wines usually have no luck. I've tried many sulphur-free wines over the past decade and a half, but these are the first I've ever actually enjoyed because they are the first that are not oxidised, and therefore, drinkable.

It has to be said sulphur is not detectable in the vast majority of wines we drink. And levels of sulphur in wine have significantly declined, as a general rule, thanks to screwcaps, which guarantee an air-free environment in wine bottles, so the wine needs less protection. The lack of sulphur in Viret wines both piqued Carrad's curiosity and made him cautious. He decided to take the plunge and import them to New Zealand on the strength of just one Viret wine, which he'd loved: Renaissance.

It's a typical French Rhone Valley "GSM" - a blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre grapes. Because of the lack of sulphur in Viret wines, they are perfect for those who react to sulphur in wine. It would be extremely rare for sulphur to cause fatal ill-effects but it can make wine drinking unpleasant for asthma sufferers. These wines are completely safe on that score, though there is a hitch. They pack a high alcohol punch. Renaissance has 14.5 per cent alcohol, so I was surprised to feel great the day after enjoying three large glasses of it.

Alain and Philippe Viret make sulphur-free wines using a method they call "Cosmoculture". Described as acupuncture for the earth, Cosmoculture involves stone circles, planetary beacons and homeopathy in the vineyard. It has more in common with biodynamic winemaking than anything else, not least because it defies a 100 per cent logical explanation. The Viret duo developed and have now trademarked "Cosmoculture" as their stamp of au natural winemaking.

And if you're thinking "same old tripe about reducing one's carbon footprint", I can suggest only that you try Domaine Viret Renaissance.
It's so big in flavour, so rustic yet deliciously different, it begs to be poured and savoured by red wine fiends everywhere. domaine-viret.com

Wines of the week

Within your means
2007 Taylors 80 Acres Shiraz Viognier $19-$20
As always with good Aussie shiraz, this big red is gutsy but soft, juicy but dark and, thanks to its newfound 100 per cent carbon neutrality production, it ticks a few of those vital green boxes too.
Check out its environmental street cred at taylorswines.com.au

The splurge
2006 Domaine Viret Renaissance $37
This wine needs to be decanted into large glasses, a jug or decanter, prior to drinking its rich, juicy sweetness, which intermingles with cocoa flavours and staunch tannins. Available at The Wine Circle, www.winecircle.co.nz and Rumbles in Wellington, rumbles.co.nz

Test the waters
2007 Millton Te Arai Vineyard Chenin Blanc $25
Chenin blanc is the alternative white wine for chardonnay lovers and this biodynamic version is a consistent star with fresh zingy apple and honey flavours and a bone-dry finish. millton.co.nz