Gear worth pinching from your boyfriend

Little Brother comes up with something special for men (shotgun and shells not included). Picture / Carolyn Robertson

The designers showing at New Zealand Fashion Week yesterday had to follow after Zambesi's genius frock'n' roll performance the night before.

The iconic label knew to leave the audience wanting more - and it certainly did.

Groups of people were huddled after the show on-stage at the St James planning next winter's wardrobe.

Backed by Pluto performing live on-stage, the men looked like members of Pete Doherty's uber-cool and well-dressed band Babyshambles in razor sharp suits with tight-legged trousers in Zambesi's signature dark colour palette and the odd tuxedo waistcoat.

There were clever accents of pink and red velvet-fringed scarves. This is stuff you'd be proud to have your boyfriend wear - and you may just want to pinch some of it for yourself.

While not reinventing the wheel, the womenswear was irresistible. The narrow silhouetted suits were repeated on the women to stunning rock chick effect.

But the bomber jackets on a wide rib done in velvet and satin and the dresses with subtle balloon effect in prints and soft blush pink with velvet panels were a knockout.

Pearl got the second day under way with subtly structured suiting in charcoal with wide legged pants and knee-length breeches, pairing floaty georgette dresses and fine knits in blues and pinks with the tightest satin leggings imaginable. The beauty of them was their versatility: the zip at the ankle could be done up for a ruched effect, or unzipped to rest on the foot.

The fur protesters can stand down. Instead of last year's taxidermied budgies and model in a boar's head, Annah Stretton toned it down and used four fa'afine for effect. They could teach a few of the models a thing or two on how to walk in shoes that were at least eight inches.

Stretton did her regulation multiple layers of satin, wool, bright colours and clashing printed bias-cut dresses and jackets for her Jewel in the Crown collection. The tapa cloth detailing on a few pieces was a nice touch.

Petrena Miller's focus was on fur, both rabbit and fake, chunky golfing-inspired three-quarter pants and, bar Lorraine Mexted's red tango number, mother-of-the-bride eveningwear.

Nelson label Madcat concentrated on a long, narrow silhouette of skirts and knit tops before going into eveningwear overdrive: layers and layers of organza skirts and corset tops.

Wellingtonian Lois Phin was so keen on the puffball skirt she managed a Fashion Week first: an asymmetric puffball.

Deborah Sweeney, also from the capital, gave the assembled fashion-goers a taste of something special for the day. She also did puffballs but hers worked. The gold, fuchsia and tartan silk cocktail versions were worn over grey T-shirts. Then there was the sweet black button-through dress with white-trimmed ruffle front, check capes finishing on the hip and lumberjack check shirt with ruffle front and green floral print dresses.

The unexpected styling really turned the collection into something special. It was as simple as pairing a blue T-shirt and denim waistcoat and putting a striped skivvy under a belted black spaghetti-strap dress.

Australian-based Kiwi lingerie designer Virginia Poppe's silk lingerie, slips, robes, bed and lounging wear wafted down the catwalk. The predominantly black and ivory boudoir pieces would be essential wear in any seduction.

In contrast, Sally Ridge's sportif underwear label james & august is all about casual cotton camisoles, undies and hoodies for lounging about in.

The colours were fresh and there was some nice detailing such as the small line of coloured dots on the back of the briefs.

Until Workshop and Workshop Denim there had been a noticeable lack of jeans and denim on the catwalk. That all changed with the men's skinny jeans and jackets in light grey and dark denim. The women's denim had the same stovepipe leg but made use of domes and tab pockets.

This was mixed with striped leggings, scarves and skivvies. The highlight was the black gymslip over a crisp white shirt and black tie.

Helen Cherry has obviously been keeping her eye on what's happening in the Northern Hemisphere and showed 50s-style striped taffeta and black cocktail dresses.

She also had a foray into librarian chic with pink suiting with belted jackets, shorts and pencil skirts. Then came the navy velvet knickerbockers, waistcoat and jacket. Very Little Lord Fauntleroy.

Her saleable floral print dresses had deep V-necks and floated prettily down the runway.

Trend watch

Pretty dressers are de rigueur.
Puffball hems everywhere.
The waist is back, cinch it immediately.
Waistcoats worn instead of jackets.
Lumberjack checks for best.