Gaultier show takes inspiration from Africa

PARIS - Jean-Paul Gaultier closed the spring/summer 2005 haute couture week yesterday with a bravura show that took its inspiration from the African continent.

Staged in a former theatre that also serves as Gaultier HQ, models wound their way around the salon parading outfits that flaunted the technique of his specialist haute couture workshops.

A rust-hued skirt suit lavished with glass beads in a floral relief pattern, modelled by Naomi Campbell, brought a confident start to the proceedings.

Signature designs such as his curvaceous tuxedo trouser suits and raunchy corsets - Gaultier first shot to worldwide fame in 1990 when Madonna wore his pale pink conical bra for her Blonde Ambition tour - were integrated into his tribal theme.

But it was a series of intricately-worked evening gowns that re-iterated the designer's position as one of France's best hopes for the future of couture.

Many of them are destined for red carpet fans such as Cate Blanchett, who wore a pale lilac Gaultier haute couture gown to the Golden Globes earlier this month.

Details such as elaborate pin tucks on a cream halter dress, or the mass of multicoloured beads and passementerie that decorated a floor-length frock demonstrated the workmanship of the French ateliers.

Since Yves Saint Laurent retired in 2002 Gaultier has been viewed by the French fashion establishment as his natural successor and has inherited the patronage of many of the older designer's moneyed clients.

In his prime Saint Laurent also explored African themes for his fashion design. In fact Gaultier's is the youngest haute couture business in Paris, at only 8 years old.

Now aged 53, Gaultier, who trained at Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, has finally shed his soubriquet as the 'Enfant Terrible of French fashion'. T

he surgically enhanced and reed thin private clients who sat in front row gilt chairs at his show yesterday burst into spontaneous applause at the sight of a gown constructed entirely of black silk satin ribbons, its bodice cleverly manipulated into the shape of a face. I

f the total number of clients willing and able to spend up to £70,000 ($184,000) on a couture dress has now dwindled to around 2,000 worldwide, the turnout at Gaultier's show yesterday was reassuring during an uncertain haute couture week.

The bleach-blond designer, who also creates fashion for luxury goods house Hermas besides his own ready-to-wear brand, emerged at the end of the show to accompany a model whose 'wedding dress' was a miniscule white bikini, proving that, despite his establishment status, Gaultier is still capable of adding shock value to even the most expensive outfit.

- INDEPENDENT