Photo / Paul Thompson
Paul Thompson from Pod Gardening takes us through part two of saving seeds.
Many summer plants are now in their final stages of productivity as they produce seed before dying or becoming dormant. Saving seed from many of them is fairly straightforward and can save you money. Check out these easy procedures and you could get much of next spring and summer's planting stashed away now so you are ahead of the game on the other side of winter.
Plants that produce seed heads and small pods.
This covers a wide variety of herbs, vegetables and companion flowers. Things like fennel, parsley, basil and coriander, spinach, beetroot, lettuce and broccoli and calendula, cosmos, marigolds, poppies and zinnias.
Remove seed heads when any petals have fallen away and seeds appear to have been formed and have started to dry, in the case of plants that produce small pods like poppies and brassicas wait till these are fully formed and developing a tough exterior, snip pods from plants and dry on a plate on a warm windowsill. Seeds should then become loose inside the pods.
Shake seeds from seed heads straight into paper bags or envelopes. Pods should be opened and enclosed seed heads shaken or broken to release their contents. You can use plastic ziplock bags as long as seeds are totally dry - if any moisture goes in with the seeds they might rot. Using envelopes or paper bags will allow any residual moisture to escape. Store in a cool, dry room.
**Tip: add some dry rice grains to packets and they will absorb moisture.
Plants that produce pods.
Peas and beans.
Allow pods to fully ripen - this means waiting until the seeds inside them have fully swelled and the pods look like a row of small bumps. Pods are ready when they have developed a tough outer skin and their colour has started to fade. At this stage you can pick them and leave them on a sunny windowsill to dry out for around a week. When the pods are dry, pop out the seeds and let them sit in a bowl for a few more days to make sure they are fully dry. Store in jars, bags or envelopes.
Plants that produce tubers.
Potatoes, yams, Jerusalem artichokes.
Choose smallish tubers, about egg-sized, and check that they are free from disease and blemishes. Handle carefully to prevent bruising. Store in a container with an open lid in a dark, well ventilated, frost free but cool environment - a garage, cellar or shed should do. Each tuber should be wrapped in newspaper and the tubers should not touch or they may rot. Line the container they are to be placed in with crumpled up newspaper, or dry straw. Tubers should last several months like this but check on them every few weeks and remove any that are going mouldy. As temperatures starts to warm you can chit them on a sunny windowsill and plant your next crop.
Plants that produce bulbs.
Garlic and shallots. plants that produce bulbs.
Save the largest bulbs of garlic and they should produce the best garlic next season. With shallots it is the opposite way around and you save small bulbs - or sets - for re-planting. These should grow into a tight bunch of juicy, big shallots.
Dig up your crop when foliage has fully wilted. Handle carefully and allow to dry in a well-ventilated dry area like a garage or shed. Lay each plant of a mesh or slatted surface so that air can circulate around them. When foliage is dry and papery, plait or bundle your bunches and hang up in a cool dark room. Garlic and shallots harvested in summer should last until mid-winter planting time. Choose firm, unblemished cloves and sets when it comes to planting.
Check out 'Seed saving: Part 1" here.
For full-scale, seasonal edible gardening advice and inspiration see www.podgardening.co.nz or check out Pod Gardening on facebook.