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Home / Lifestyle

From east to eco chic

By Kirsten MacFarlane
17 Jan, 2007 04:00 PM9 mins to read

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Fashion designer Sherie Muys' White Wash range is an award winner.

Fashion designer Sherie Muys' White Wash range is an award winner.

KEY POINTS:

In an age where computer technology is racing ahead at warp speed, it's comforting to know that some trends will almost certainly make a comeback. After lying dormant for decades, they're dusted off and reworked with a modern spin.

Many ideas to filter back through fashion, food and design are welcome revivals. Anyone care to deride the return of hearty French bistro fare or ridicule a new Ken doll that plays house-husband (see The Explorers, right)?

But some of fashion's revivals are perplexing.

Just a few to emerge from fashion's turbulent curves are bohemian frocks, the puffball and skinny jeans.

Now we have the indignity of leggings, or as they've been redubbed for the sake of modernity, footless tights. The staple of every 80s wardrobe, leggings began colonising our wardrobes over summer and now they look set to nudge out sensible woolly tights in the coming winter.

Blame the stylists for reviving some of fashion's travesties.

The leader of the pack is Rachel Zoe, the inspiration behind the clothes adorning Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan and Mischa Barton and copied by millions of teenagers. Remember Richie in bug sunglasses, oversized designer handbag and loopy headscarf? It was Zoe and her clever take on past trends, most notably Jackie Onassis and the 70s Valley of the Dolls lifestyle.

But her suggestion that size zero was the desired fashion goal was her ultimate downfall. Zoe's two-year reign as the style queen ended abruptly, after bratty Richie unceremoniously dumped her in favour of a new stylist. What's more she went on to make disparaging remarks about Zoe and her deathly disorder in her MySpace page. But that was last month's news and another stylist is now hinting that fashion zero is buried for good.

If Hollywood is still a force, Sandy Burgham, director of strategic think tank The Providence Report, predicts a move to Asian popular culture.

"There's a new orientation skewing toward North East Asia and India, whose youth cultures are dynamic, dominant and unashamedly eastern in sensibility. Even with China's ageing population, their Little Emperors and Empresses are hitting teens and young adulthood as China's middle classes swell."

Burgham says we should watch out for Bollywood Remixes, Manga, Anime and Hallyu (Korean wave of K-Pop culture) as Greater Auckland wakes up and embraces Asia Pacifica.

"Might not be everyone's cup of green tea but for those rejecting American-coffee-on-the-go-culture, Asian snacks and cool, sweet, refreshing ice teas will make a nice change."

With smoothies like George Clooney crusading for the green cause, the stage is set for the new eco chic. "Already a new wave of neo-greens are swapping minimalist design aesthetics for minimalist footprint status buying carbon credits and green gifts at Christmas," says Burgham.

"The new dinner party conversations will morph from 'what's fish of the day?' to 'is orange roughy sustainable?"'

But what of the more disturbing future trends? As computer technologies infiltrate our lives, we're in danger of slipping into a contented zombie-like state.

At least attempt to stay alert for some of the more alarming predictions. Joanna Blythman, author of Bad Food Britain, warns of a split in the organics movement, supermarkets becoming Orwellian in character and seafood disappearing off our plates. More disturbing are the scientists who are now experimenting on pigs that manufacture omega-3 oils and "the Schwarzenegger cow" that is genetically engineered to contain less fat. It all sounds downright unpalatable - and there's more to come.

It's almost certain that tiny computer chips will soon be embedded into all manner of manufactured objects. It's called smart packaging: a yoghurt pottle will warn you that it's "been tampered with" or, as the expiry date looms, "I'm still safe". There will be so much chattering in the kitchen, you'll be hard pressed to eat in peace.

And don't think you can take refuge in the home office; it's going to be invaded by your work colleagues. Some time in the future, you'll be slipping into clothing that sports a light-weight head-mounted display, and data-gloves. Your co-workers will appear as a holographic image. It will be even possible to "move" around the room, gesture, look someone else in the face and engage in conversation. If it all sounds frightening, remember one thing about the future - we just don't know.

Fashion designers take note: there's a new target audience called SOLS (sexy older ladies) and she wants sensational, not daggy.

It's all part of the feminisation of society, as predicted by Burgham. Her description of future women is a cautionary tale for men.

"Waking up to the man drought and facing the consequences of delayed fertility, women will have no choice but to keep entering the workforce in droves but this doesn't mean she'll make it to the top.

"A new wave of feminism is individualist, oh so sexy and values life over career (think Angelina Jolie). Companies will be forced into courting her for their executive team but she'll reject traditional corporate life in favour of a road less travelled.

"There will be an associated rise of recreational education (learning for cultural capital versus career capital), adventure travel (including dramatic but short breaks) - and as baby boomers age we'll see new target audience groups such as Wealthy Widows and SOLS (sexy older ladies)."

THE EXPLORERS

Some of them are reviving the past, others are reconfiguring the present, but all four have their sights on the future.

Jonny McDonald

Contemplating future design trends, product designer Jonny McDonald muses that while simplicity still reigns, people have to relate to products emotionally.

A recent graduate of Unitec's Design School, McDonald is changing artificial light in a curiously organic way. For Milkyway, this 34-year-old created an imposing structure of 10 bulbs held together by ply components. His latest work, Constellation, also explores the final frontier, with a clever wire structure connecting seven hanging, large bulbs. With a background in sculpture, McDonald says lighting offers the chance to explore more "broad, atmospheric themes". In his pursuit of more earthbound projects - but no less ambitious - the designer is a finalist in a Waitakere City Council competition to design a bridge in Auckland's Henderson.

"Form is a strong factor. It's the language through which I communicate, and gives my work a sculptural aspect."

In a world where computer technologies keep advancing on our lives, McDonald asks us to contemplate tactility. "I'm interested in materials and creating an emotional connection. Life is not just made from one thing but the collection of many parts, interlocking and interconnecting to form a whole."

Shine on. Jonny McDonald's lights are available at Simon James Design store. For more information: www.sjdesign.co.nz

Ben Convery

In a bold departure from the usual Pacific Rim fusion fare, chef Ben Convery is reviving the traditional cuisine of French Bistro. On Tabou's menu, you'll find such hearty mains as sirloin steak and lyonnaise potatoes with garlicky spinach - a classic dish, reworked for another generation of diners.

"We don't do fusion or overly fussy food. The menu features simple ingredients with no more than three flavours on the plate."

Not one to dwell on fancy garnishing, this 32-year-old chef prefers to plate up quality cuts and generous portions. Convery says the biggest challenge to creating his pared-back style of dining is understanding the complexities of the food. No matter, Tabou's menu is proving a winner with the customers; the most popular entree being French onion soup. As co-owner Rebecca Jones says: "Bistro is comfortable, the kind of food you get at home but better."

C'est fantastique.

For more information: www.tabou.co.nz

Sherie Muys

After receiving a suitcase full of vintage patterns from a 91-year-old sewing enthusiast, fashion designer Sherie Muys is convinced that history is the new toy for inspiration. But then this 21-year-old graduate from AUT University's fashion school gets her inspiration from the oddest places.

The mundaneness of a laundry and her dad's white shirt flapping in the breeze was the spark to launch an intriguing collection on the runway during the Rookie show at New Zealand Fashion Week. Her White Wash range was anything but, winning praise from critics and scooping the Deutz Ambassador Award. Next month she leaves Auckland to work alongside a noted designer in Britain.

After her debut collection was picked up by Blondies boutiques in Australia, the designer was catapulted into fashion production, commandeering her sister's room for a cutting table.

Muys admits she is fascinated by menswear with a feminine allure and womenswear with a masculine touch.

"It's like cross-wiring fashion."

She's calling her new label sheriyvonne and even that's a fresh twist on naming rights.

Bridget Ward

As every girl knows, Barbie dumped Ken after 43 steady years, claiming he was not ready to marry. Well, Ken doll now has the ultimate revenge, thanks to designer Bridget Ward. In an ambitious campaign to re-educate children about gender roles, the 21-year-old designer has given Ken a new life as a bona fide househusband.

In a plastic-fantastic world where mummy wears the pants and daddy wears the apron, Ken is the new role model for undervalued househusbands in our rugby-bent society.

After some of the influential men in her life received flak for taking over the domestics, Ward was determined to show a more positive side to a role that's increasing in New Zealand.

"It's still not socially accepted for a male to assume the role of a mother. But househusbands are on the rise and future generations need a more balanced view of how society is changing."

Ward developed the Daddy concept during her final year at AUT University's Design School, producing five colourful Ken doll packages, complete with cutesy accessories. In her catalogue, Ward teases the "Daddy cares for baby" doll with the discovery that "what goes in one end of Rosie, comes out the other. Sometimes this makes Daddy want to vomit." With the "Daddy teaches us" doll, Ward reminds us that only 1 per cent of early childhood teachers are men. Ward majored in advertising, and is keen to pursue full-time work in the industry. She already has big plans.

"I think it would be really cool to show the idea to Mattel."

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