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Home / Lifestyle

From bulls' blood to top-notch

By John Hawkesby
NZ Herald·
2 Jun, 2008 05:00 PM2 mins to read

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Armantes Old Bush Wine Garnacha 2006 from Spain. Photo / Kenny Rodger

Armantes Old Bush Wine Garnacha 2006 from Spain. Photo / Kenny Rodger

KEY POINTS:

Primer one at Ellerslie Primary in the early 50s was a safe haven. Much credit ought to go to Mrs Pinnegar, a no-nonsense but calm, gentle woman, who apart from being an inspirational teacher, had the ability to nurture an entire class of timid, bewildered 5-year-olds.

Each
day began with us singing All Things Bright and Beautiful, followed by speech and reading. It's here I learned that rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain. Whether it really does or not I've no idea, but Spain has done a brilliant job of promoting itself as a country where the sun never stops shining and this is a big factor in why it has the largest plantings of vines in the world.

Size may matter but for Spain, in the past, being bigger didn't equate to being better. Spanish wine was mainly inexpensive, easily tossed down the throat, passed off as "bulls' blood" and enjoyed in enormous quantities by British tourists on budget holidays. Cheap and cheerless was the more honest appraisal.

There is still a lot of reasonably priced wine, but times are changing. Spain is now the darling of the wine world. International wine writers are describing Spain as the most exciting producer in the world: the most dynamic, most fashionable, glorious, exotic - any positive adjective you care to think of. Spain is on a roll.

Ferran Adria's El Bulli restaurant continues to be voted best in the world and Spanish wines have always been food-friendly. Modernisation and frenetic development is paying off. The best whites are the fragrant, crisp and lively wines from the Albarino grape but it's the supple, mature, complex, well-structured reds that are taking centre stage.

Some would say it's about time - Spain's winemaking began with the Phoenicians in 1100 BC. Regardless, if wine is the language of seduction then, in Bob Dylan's words, Spanish is the loving tongue.

Recommended

2006 Armantes Old Bush Vine Garnacha
Intensely flavoured, dark berry red from skilful winemaker Norrel Robertson MW. Made from grapes from 50-year-old vines.
Price: $16-18

2003 Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva
Made only in the best vintages, this mainly tempranillo wine is complemented by cabernet sauvignon and merlot. From a top producer, the wine is full-bodied with lovely tannins.
Price: $27

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