Fresh figs: how to grow and recipes to enjoy from Nostrana, by Bri DiMattina

Figs from Nostrana by Bri DiMattina. Photo / Lottie Hedley

Fig trees are arguably the quintessential Mediterranean fruit tree (though olive and lemon trees might be included in this category). They prefer a warm climate but if you love figs enough, you can make it work. I’ve heard of Italian families in Chicago literally burying the trees in winter by tipping them sideways into a tree-sized grave and covering them with coffee sacks and logs to protect them from the freezing temperatures and snow. Then they have a grand resurrection every spring. That is incredible dedication, but completely understandable if you love fresh, sun-warmed figs in summer. A hobby of mine is to try to collect heirloom varieties that have family connections. The latest in my garden is a variety given to me by some friends in Nelson, from a fig tree that travelled from Stromboli to D’Urville Island with Angelina Moleta (nee Criscillo) in the very early 1900s. Not a lot grows on Stromboli as there is no water source, so there are only a few resilient species to gather.

Figs are ideal candidates for your garden because they are rarely seen at markets as they don’t travel well.

They are fast-growing and quick to fruit, so you will be rewarded almost immediately, even if it is just one or two on a tiny twig the first year. After that, almost every stem will have several fruits.

They are tough plants and fairly pest-free until the figs are ripe – then it is a race against the birds! Fig trees like warm summers and can tolerate a few frosts over winter. The soil should be free-draining, but they are not too particular about the quality of the soil. I do find that my fig tree has handled dry periods a lot better with a thick mulch of leaf litter. While they love the heat, if they get too dry they will abandon their fruit.

Figs are self-fertilising, so you only need the one tree. If you, like me, would like more trees, choose varieties that complement each other seasonally. This extends your fig season, as well as mitigating any weather events that may cause one of the crops to be below average. If you do have hot, dry summers, don’t plant out your first tree until late winter or early spring, just to give the roots some time to establish before the summer hits. It’s even better to have them as a pot plant for a year or two on your deck (or garden edge) where watering is easy as they adjust to your microclimate, and you can move them inside if the winters are freezing in your area.

Bri DiMattina. Photo / Lottie Hedley

Pruning is important and also easy. Start with the branches that are getting in each other’s way or rubbing together, anything diseased, and all the suckers that appear (these are perfect for giving away to friends to start their own clone of your tree). Aim to remove about a third of the foliage.

Once the fruit appears, don’t be tempted to pick them too soon as they don’t ripen well off the tree. They ripen one at a time per branch, so you do get an ongoing supply. You’ll know they are ripe when they start to feel soft and change colour, depending a little on the variety. They will also be easy to pick. They only last a few days, but if you end up with too many, they freeze well whole. They are great roasted or in smoothies from frozen.

The leaves are also used in syrups and teas, and most often as a food wrap. I recommend using the younger leaves as they get tough as they get bigger.

USING FRESH FIGS

When figs are in season it’s really hard to go past just eating them warm off the tree. In all honesty, fresh figs are best enjoyed as fresh figs, with very little done to them. I haven’t found a way to preserve them in a way that truly represents them as well as the magic of eating them fresh. That said, they do have some “perfect partners”, so here are a few of my favourite ways to serve figs …

Caramelised

Sprinkle a little honey, brown sugar or maple syrup on the bottom of a frying pan and heat over medium-high heat. Cut the stem off the figs then cut in half lengthwise. When the pan is hot, place the figs cut side down in the pan. Cook for a couple of minutes, until lightly coloured underneath. Serve with muesli and unsweetened yoghurt, drizzled with some of the honey from the pan.

Gorgonzola-stuffed

This is perfect for a cheese platter. Cut the stems off (quite low) and score a deep cross about two-thirds of the way down some figs. Open out the cuts a little and stuff with a teaspoon of gorgonzola, then drizzle with a little honey.

With sliced pears & shaved pecorino

Halve, core and finely slice a pear. Cut the stems from a couple of figs, then finely slice. Arrange alternately on a plate and top with shaved pecorino (or salted ricotta if you have it).

With ricotta, honey & salted pistachios

Cut the stems off figs (cut quite low so you have a flat surface area on top) and score a deep cross into the top. Open out the cuts a little and stuff with fresh ricotta. Sprinkle with chopped salted pistachios and then drizzle with honey.

Fig & goat’s cheese tartines

Toast a slice of your favourite sourdough bread. Spread with a layer of goat’s cheese, then splay a sliced fig on top. Sprinkle with thyme leaves and drizzle with honey.

Amaretto-roasted

To roast the figs, remove the stems, cut in half and lay cut side up in a baking dish. Drizzle with a little amaretto and roast, or cook under the grill, to your liking. While warm, place on top of icecream (with some of the pan juices) and sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts.

Wrapped in serrano ham

Remove the stems from figs and cut into quarters. Wrap each quarter with a very thin slice of serrano ham. Serve fresh or baked, with a drizzle of honey if you like.

Nostrana by Bri DiMattina. HarperCollins NZ, RRP $55. Photography credit: Lottie Hedley.

Extracted from Nostrana by Bri DiMattina. (HarperCollins NZ, $55).