Foreign exchange

Hearty Slovakian food draws from the gastronomic traditions of Hungary, Austria, Poland and Russia. Photo / Ian Jones

I arrived in Vienna, Austria, and was picked up by a Czechoslovakian in a very ratty Skoda. We then crossed the Danube into Bratislava, which was to be my home for the next two months. But I arrived at the restaurant I was to be consulting at amid a huge commotion. After some investigation, I discovered that, just prior to my arrival, someone had been shot. Welcome to Slovakia.

But before I could ponder that too much and back quietly toward the door, I was whisked off to eat the city's best pizza: a dough base with grilled cheese followed by very good salami and a hefty splatter of tomato ketchup.

Then it was down to business. My kitchen crew outlined their specialties and I was shown an enormous, bubbling cauldronof sauerkraut. Over a cappuccino - thick, black Turkish coffee with condensed milk and cake made with pork fat - I discussed with the proprietor my plans for the menu. But really, my first task was learning to to cook with carp, a freshwater fish I was completely unfamiliar with - and a traditional Slovakian dish.

First grated onion, parsley, salt and caraway seeds were rubbed into cuts in the fish flesh. It was then roasted in foil with lemon. To banish the muddy taste, I stuffed the fish stomach cavity with more lemon, parsley, walnuts and horseradish. And before eating I drizzled the finished dish with a dressing made from the same ingredients, and the whole thing was served with crispy potato chunks.

After finishing the fish I was quicky educated by staff on the "correct" way of making fresh, coloured pasta, sausages and pizza - then offered a glass of slivovica, a plum brandy that truly brings tears to the eyes of the uninitiated.

Slovakian food is a mixing bowl of influences from Hungary, Austria, Poland and Russia. In villages in the Tatra Mountains, I discovered wonderful halusky dumplings made with potatoes, flour and pork fat, rolled off a chopping board into boiling water.

On my last day in Bratislava I sat in Mamut pivnica, once Europe's largest beer hall, drinking some of the best Pilsner Urquell I have ever tried. It was the perfect antidote to an intense adventure.

RECIPES

Slovak goulash

Salmon with parsley, walnuts, lemon and horseradish