Fashion Week: Stitches in time

A model showcases designs on the catwalk by Juliette Hogan. Photo / Getty Images

Looking to the past is fashion's future, as indicated on day one of New Zealand Fashion Week with ubiquitous references to the decades gone by.

But Zambesi provided refreshing modernity with an urban tribe of models who stalked the runway in tribal makeup, shaggy coats, floral lace and beautiful panelled dresses.

Starfish opened the first day of NZFW shows with the first "eco-show", with ladylike shapes, slouchy coats and jackets and a floral print that reinforced the collection's environmentally friendly message.

There were also clogs made from recycled rimu found in a building in Lyttelton; a shame they were too small for some of the models.

The clothes were lovely and wearable, and will sell well to designer Laurie Foon's fellow eco-warriors and fashion fans, but were perhaps not the strongest way to kick off Fashion Week's 10th year.

Juliette Hogan was an early morning highlight, and probably should have opened the week, with a beautiful collection that showcased the designer's new grown-up, sophisticated aesthetic, drawing inspiration from a good girl going bad - and with garment names like the 'Joan' sweater, 'Halloway' dress and 'Peggy' tee, very obviously from the wardrobe of Mad Men.

It's Hogan's season - dressing like a lady is very fashionable right now thanks to Prada and Louis Vuitton - although Hogan has been designing for this well mannered muse since she began her label in 2004.

It's obvious with this collection that fashion's prim turn has given Hogan the confidence to embrace her ladylike shtick and push it further, with beehived models in full skirts, tweed jackets, sweaters, and relaxed corseting.

There were also a refreshing number of pants, another mature nod, and the introduction of new elements to Hogan's repertoire, knitwear in the form of cute handknitted sweaters, and leather, for good girls.

Andrea Moore, who recently opened a new Auckland store, showed a collection that was largely made up of smart jackets and relaxed tailoring, from boyfriend blazers to a stand-out camel cape - there was also the first appearance of a camel coat, something I predict we will see in many collections this week, thanks to French fashion house Celine who did this two seasons ago.

Camel made an appearance at Sera Lilly's show as well, in the form of a bold floor length camel trench.

The show opened with a curtain dropping to reveal 45 models standing on the runway; the buzz and theatrics were welcome in a morning of relatively low-key shows.

The collection was made up of three sections, including bridal gowns and cocktail dresses, all under the umbrella of a Latino expedition - but it was the first section that was the most exciting, with heavy wool capes and jackets, full skirts that hit the calf at mid-calf, shaggy vests and suede jackets lined with sheepskin. It was a surprising and more fashion forward departure from glamour and short strapless dresses for Lilly.

Cybele's collection was classic Cybele, with standout ponchos and capes lined with hair like fringing, and PVC corsets and bustiers. The pagan-inspired show featured models stalking the runway in dark colours, swing coats, beautiful dresses constructed of various fabric panels - and a velvet jumpsuit which was surprisingly beautiful.

Kathryn Wilson debuted NZFW's first footwear show, with a raised runway and show that featured ushers in catsuits, models in leotards designed by Emma Ford, shoes inspired by the 80s and Robert Palmer girls.

After a day of looking at wearable clothes, and a buzzing crowd, it was difficult to focus on just the shoes - but the shoes were wearable, with booties in an array of colours, wedges, almost knee high boots and retro inspired mustard pumps.

Adrian Hailwood's show continued the retro inspired theme, with an array of inspirations; with Seventies-esque shaggy coats, denim, gold lurex dresses, and velvet. Inspired by the 'living dolls' portrayed by Los Angeles photographer Alex Prager, the vulnerable edge was perhaps lost in translation.

Today starts with an early morning showing from Ruby, as well as eagerly awaited shows from Jimmy D, World, Alexandra Owen, Trelise Cooper and Nom.d.

Today's Viva showcases some of the leading faces behind Fashion Week and includes the latest looks in store.