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Home / Lifestyle

Fashion Week Insider's Diary - Day One

By Megan Gibb, Joanna Hunkin and Eveline Jenkin
17 Sep, 2007 04:25 AM10 mins to read

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Hailwood's collection was sleek and stylish in monochrome.

Hailwood's collection was sleek and stylish in monochrome.

Photo GalleryPhotos from the Hailwood show

Photo GalleryPhotos from the Cybele show

Photo GalleryPhotos from the Deborah Sweeney show

KEY POINTS:

10.10pm: Yes, you did read that right. Running more than an hour late, Yvonne Bennetti's 8.30pm show didn't adjourn until after 10pm. The delay was caused by a host of problems, including cleaning up the glass sand runway used in Nom*D's show.

Known for her glamorous frocks, Bennetti
drew an A-list crowd (well, as A-list as Auckland gets) including Rachel Hunter, Nicky Watson, Trelise Cooper, Shane Cortese, Petra Bagust and Aja Rock.

The show's glamour factor meant it was the most sought after show of the day and everyone with (and many without) tickets, jostled fiercely for seats.

While Air NZ ushers did their best to keep people off the stark white runway, it was a lost cause and the vinyl floor was scuffed and scraped before any model set foot on it.

The show itself was a marathon, featuring around 70 outfits, meaning some models had up to 7 outfit changes. A feat made even more impressive as there was a dearth of dressers backstage, thanks to the Nom*D stylists, who allegedly kicked out the AUT volunteers.

The team of AUT fashion students who work as dressers throughout Fashion Week were told (rather bluntly) that their services were not required for the Nom*D show, so many decided to go home.

Goodie bag dissection: Audi silver mirror compact, L'Oreal hair wax, L'Oreal Volume Shocking mascara, Bettjemans hairdressing voucher for free treatment and blowdry, Lindt Lindor chocolate balls - all packed up in an Yvonne Bennetti print canvas tote.
Rating: 8/10

In other backstage news, it seems there were some rather unhappy models last night when there wasn't enough dinner to go round.

Apparently Nandos - the official backstage caterers - closed the kitchen before everyone was fed, leaving some of the girls to go hungry.

8.03pm When it comes to Nom*D shows, they are as much about theatrics as the clothes. Which probably explains why there were so many people at this year's show. As ushers frantically ran around trying to accomodate the vast crowd, it took more than 40 minutes to get everyone seated.

With so much time to scope out the crowd, we couldn't help but spot one poor lass who managed to pull off her skirt while trying to climb to her seat. Such are the perils of Fashion Week.

As the lights dimmed to mark the start of the show, the front row was blinded by the sudden burst of light from the trail of naked fluroscent lights lying on the crushed glass runway. Like we said, Nom*D is all about theatrics.

So onto the last show of the day - Yvonne Bennetti. Promising glittering gowns and sexy frocks, it's safe to say the show will be the polar opposite to Nom*D's dark and deconstructed look.

6.30pm: You can tell what time it is at Fashion Week by who attends the shows.

*Rich housewives = early in the day.
*Suits and TV types = after 5pm.
*Socialites in cocktail dresses = after 7pm.

With Alison Mau, Boh Runga, Jaquie Brown and Petra Bagust sitting front row at Juliette Hogan's show, we realised we'd hit the 6pm rush.

Beginning at the end, Juliette Hogan sent out all her models for what would normally be the curtain call, to kick off the show. But despite its unusual beginning the show was particularly bland, the most eventful moment being when a model with an umbrella clipped a colleague on the catwalk.

And there was no goodie bag. Disappointing to say the least.

6.00pm Michael Pattison provided the best innovation at Fashion Week for years - and it had nothing to do with his clothes. 5pm is a difficult time slot, as fashion fatigue has usually begun to set in and many are off seeking sustenance.

While some chose to flag Pattison's show for food, those who did attend were rewarded with sushi boxes and Asahi beer. The refreshments reflected the oriental theme which was modelled entirely by Asian models.

Goodie bag dissection: Schwarzkopf shine spray, Cadbury Eden chocolates, A Blowfish sushi voucher, Nescafe coffee and Reflect black laundry detergent. Rating: 6/10

5.35pm Sera Lilly, sharing a show with Love Lies Bleeding, provided one of the first visible mishaps of the day - though the model in question handled it with aplomb, kicking her errant shoe to the runway curb after it parted company with her foot. And yes, we know it's their job to look graceful in heels which would make most women sweat, but these elevated examples would have tested even the most seasoned walker.

There was a 180 degree turn in footwear styling for Love Lies Bleeding, and more amusement was found watching models walk in flats. Sequined plimsoles were the order of the day, but unfortunately those models' long limbs don't look quite so graceful in the casual shoe style.

4.20 pm Well we were warned. Take ear plugs to the Hailwood show they said. And yes, they would have come in handy, as the show's music was provided by three-piece indie band Mean Streets. Models sauntered out onto the runway, being forced to weave around the end of the bass players guitar on the way.

Designer Adrian Hailwood apparently discovered the band playing in K'Rd's dingy Wine Cellar bar a few weeks ago and asked them to help him out.

The art school student's noisy rock provided a backdrop for a large collection of outfits ranging from luxe dresses and trenches invelvets and satins, to casual coats, shorts and jeans.

Hailwood too, stuck to a limited colour scheme, monochomatic black and silver broken up by the occasional dusky pink tshirt here or a dusky blue sweater there.

Black feather eyelashes made for a dramatic focal point on the model's faces, although judging from the constant blinking they weren't too comfortable. Then again, maybe fluttering eyelashes was the look they were going for.

Fashion Week organiser Pieter Stewart kept it in the family once again, with daughter Anneke taking a turn on the runway as a model.

Goodie bag dissection: Mini shoe polish kit, M2 men's fashion magazine, a pen with a mini lava lamp in the end, a corporate pen from sponsors Mercedes, mineral water and a Clarins lip balm. Rating: 8/10

2.40pm A 90-minute break between Deborah Sweeney and Cybele gave us time to peruse the trade stalls of Fashion Week. Full of the usual accesories and jewellery stalls, we couldn't help but notice the colourful Havaianas stand, where customers can create their own personalised jandal. While Megan opted for black and green with skulls, Joanna chose green and silver with pink hearts. Perfect for those summer months.

With queues snaking down the hallway, Cybele's show was nearly half-an-hour late but well worth the wait. Sticking to a limited colour palette of black, ochre, ink blue and bronze, Cybele didnt vary her shapes much from the previous couple of seasons.

Her signature print for winter 08 is based on birds and feathers - printed on shift dresses and the sleeves of tops. In contrast to the make-up of Deborah Sweeney's show (featuring bright pink lips), at Cybele the models' make-up was pared back, with nude faces and touches of bronze.

The show's delay gave us time to ponder the purpose of production staff squirting liquid on to the concrete runway.

One observer suggested it was petrol, and maybe we were in for a fiery introduction. The reality was much less dramatic. It was water, and meant to make the floor shine, according to an insider ... but the heat in the packed room meant it evaporated almost instantly.

Goodie bag dissection: Mac bronze eyepaint, Mac face brush, Sunglass Hutt $50 voucher, Kevin Murphy body products, Olive body care and a discount dinner voucher for a meal at Bracu 'in honor of Cybele'. Rating: 8/10.

12.35pm Fashion Week is a club - and the more years you attend, the more members you recognise. Taking a pew at Deborah Sweeney's show - the first of Fashion Week - the club acknowledge each other across the runway, smiling and nodding. One face that does not elicit a warm welcome, however, is the militant Air New Zealand usher, who became known to all last year for her over-zealous control of the velvet rope. Turning away top fashion writers and buyers, said usher shocked crowds outside last year's Yvonne Bennetti show, when she told one man to "f*** off" - not realising the man in question was Bennetti's father. Oops. We can't wait to see what she does this year...

Twenty minutes late, the show starts after every last person has been shepherded into the rows; one woman was heard remarking on the similarity of the scene to a barnyard. Make that a barnyard in summer - it was sweltering in Shed One, the venue for Sweeney's show. Guess the guy in row three wasn't feeling the heat though, he was rocking a furry Russian cossack hat, complete with ear flaps. NZ model Karla Devine opened the show which featured tunic dressses, bright coloured skirts with braces, skivvies and coloured tights... does this sound familiar? Worryingly, the models also wore trucker caps. Uh oh.

Goodie bag dissection: Crystal Rose Mac Lipglass - a vibrant bubblegum pink colour.
Rating: 6/10.

10.20am
Day one. Here we go. So begins four mad days of slugging back the Red Bull and/or Deutz, elbowing our way to the front of the line, clutching our media passes hoping to be ushered to prime runway viewing spots in the front row. Sighing as we resign ourselves to row B, C or God forbid, D as buyers with big hair from some tiny shop in Eketahuna or helmet haired TV presenter 'celebrities' block our view from front row. Ahhh well, all the better to shield us as we break the ultimate fashion show rule of never looking into our goodie bags while still seated.

The line up today offers some treats from stars of fashion weeks past. Hailwood has cemented its status as a strong player in NZ's fashion game with simple but striking shows in previous years. The label, designed by Adrian Hailwood has developed a strong following with quirky print Ts and key print dresses to tailored eveningwear. Hailwood won an export award at the opening last night, Air NZ stumping up $16,000 to help the designer expand his label into overseas markets.

Having just landed back in Auckland after a week in Dunedin, we can't wait to see what the city's fashion ambassadors offer up tonight. Nom*D's dark gothic and gorgeous style, while perfect for layering up against those cold southern winters, translates perfectly to the streets of Auckland.

Speaking of winter, that's what Fashion Week's all about. While you are looking optimistically out the window, hoping for a reason to wear those Ray Ban sunglasses you've snapped up, or that slinky Kate Sylvester swimwear, we'll be inside, checking out what NZ style stars will be wearing this time next year. Yes, one of the hardest parts of attending these shows is knowing we will have to wait for months before the designs appear in stores. Ahh well such is the fashion cycle of seasons.

Oooh, and before we jet down to the viaduct, we must remind you to look out for photos from the Cybele show this afternoon. Designer Cybele Wiren is on a skyrocketing path to fashion stardom, receiving rave reviews when she showed in Australia earlier this year. Check out the photos in out photo galleries which will be updated ASAP throughout the week

Our Fashion schedule for today:

Deborah Sweeney
Cybele
Hailwood
Sera Lilly &
Love Lies Bleeding
Salon
Michael Pattison
Juliette Hogan
Nom*D
Yvonne Bennetti

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