Fashion Week: And in summary ...

A model wears an outfit at the Zambesi fashion show, Photo / Babiche Martens

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A look back at the highs and lows of this year's Fashion Week.

Despite starting on a political and somewhat negative note - NZ Fashion Week founder Pieter Stewart's blunt reality check that the week might not go ahead in future without further financial support - this year's event felt the most slick and positive of recent times, with a shiny new venue, shows running like clockwork and a sense of growing maturity from designers young and old.

It was a week of contrasts: new season fashion inside the slick new Viaduct Events Centre venue and rusty old fishing boats outside; showmanship sitting alongside relatively commercial collections. There were few truly new ideas or overriding themes or trends as such, but plenty of typical "mini trends" which appear every winter - lace, velvet, leather, faux fur - plus lots of plaid, dirty colours (maroon, browns), boxy coats, hats, collar detailing and collarless coats.

Several designers looked to the 1990s or 1960s, but the strongest recurring influence was sportswear.

What was most noticeable was the overwhelmingly commercial feel to many collections - hype and showmanship were big (hello Aja Rock jumping out of a giant cake), but strip all of that away and you were left with some very commercial collections that will sell - but nothing especially stand-out (the exception being Zambesi's incredible neon, still imprinted on everyone's retina).

Beyond the commerciality, there was also a welcome maturity to many of the collections - notably from Zambesi, Juliette Hogan, Ingrid Starnes and new label Liam (whose classic black court heels sum up the grown-up idea).

There were also more mature models, at some shows at least - we loved seeing the "older guard" of local models open the SGC show, including Penny Pickard, Ngahuia Williams, Grace Owen and Veronica Crockford-Pound.

There were whiffs of controversy: someone being punched at an after-party, and a blogger ripping Hailwood's collection to shreds with no reasoning behind the critique, and questioning the honesty of local fashion writers. It's certainly a worthwhile conversation, but the real issue is not so much a lack of honesty but a lack of experience - everybody has an opinion but nobody's seems to matter.

There's a glut of young writers and bloggers keen on building their public profile, but the industry lacks enough experienced voices that can critique constructively, intelligently and in context, rather than dismissing months of hard work because they couldn't find anything they'd like to wear in a collection. (I, for one, thought Hailwood showed a progression from last year's show, with a collection that, to put into context, was named after his late mother - hence the sombre tone.)

But, much like the development of the designers on show last week, knowledge and respect comes with experience.

Let's hope there are more fashion weeks to come.

Our picks

The NZ Herald's NZFW team on their favourite shows of the week

Amanda Linnell, Viva editor

Zambesi for their much welcomed intelligence, maturity and self-assuredness. Designer Liz Findlay's bold use of colour and strong, interesting cuts transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary. This collection would have held its own on the runways in Europe.

Ana Macdonald, Viva fashion editor

My vote goes to the Liam and Ruby show. Liam featured elegant, wearable pieces like tailored coats and a gorgeous cobalt cowl back gown, very sexy and glamorous. For Ruby, Deanna Didovich wowed with her designs - modern, futuristic and fresh with injections of metallic leathers, graphic tribal prints and bright orange and marigold. Top this off with shoes and accessories in iridescent metallics to make a well-rounded show. Stand-out was the teal dress with metallic bodice. Oh to be young again!

Dan Ahwa, Canvas fashion editor

I liked the unexpectedness of the colours and the energy of the collection at Zambesi. The sportswear element appeals to me personally and I thought the collection was fresh.

Zoe Walker, Viva fashion writer

All the elements came together beautifully at Jimmy D - the intricate prints in collaboration with Andrew McLeod, the blood red silk georgette, sideswept hair, incredible eye makeup and intense death metal show music. I was impressed by the dark elegance and progression by designer James Dobson.