AUT's head of fashion tells us about her own style learnings.
She has taught some of our brightest young fashion talent, and tomorrow night Mandy Smith will look on as some of this year's design students present their final year collections at the AUT Rookie fashion show in Auckland.
Smith is head of the fashion department at AUT, an overarching
course that incorporates the teachings of menswear, womenswear, knitwear, costume and textiles. She describes her own wardrobe as casual and comfortable, with a preference for designers with an intellectual and innovative bent. She tells us more about her style, and the wisdom passed down to her students.
Who are your favourite designers?
Yohji Yamamoto for his dark elegance and Rei Kawakubo for constantly challenging the norm.
What was the last item of clothing you bought?
An Angela Lewis chiffon and jersey top from a recycle shop.
What item of clothing or accessory do you want to buy next?
Any silk dress from Bernhard Willhelm's summer range - they have amazing cutting techniques incorporated into them but are exquisitely simple and would be easy to wear.
Who is your ultimate fashion plate?
Isabella Blow; what an amazing woman with a fierce sense of style.
What is your most cherished item of clothing?
There have been many over the years - but I have a vintage 1930s long velvet coat, with beautiful sleeve details, that always makes me feel special. It carries many memories both mine and those of its previous life before I owned it.
What is your favourite decade, style-wise?
Definitely the early 1920s when the extreme fashions and designers of the time like Paul Poiret and Lanvin were being influenced by orientalism. Without this time period in fashion women may never have got out of corsets or worn trousers!
Your favourite stylish place?
Any of the amazing restaurants or vineyards to be found on Waiheke, which I am lucky enough to call home.
Who does the best shoes?
Kathryn Wilson. It is so great to see a local designer working in this area and getting it so right.
Who does the best jeans?
Workshop - because they fit me!
Your favourite shop, locally?
Children of Vision.
Your favourite shop in another country?
Comme des Garcons, Aoyama Store in Tokyo.
What is your fragrance?
Calvin Klein Euphoria.
What do you wear at home?
Lots of jersey layers that are comfortable so I can walk the dog on the beach, run children around the island and do chores without thinking about clothes.
Best way to recycle clothes?
Being a great fan of recycle shops, it would have to be using them.
Best sartorial advice you ever had?
From my pattern tutor when I was a student in the UK; she had trained and worked with Norman Hartnell and had amazing tailoring skills. At the time as students in the 80s all we wanted to learn was the large Japanese-inspired flat shapes and layering. She told me to focus on the craft of fit and tailoring, because with the cyclical nature of fashion, fitted garments would be back in the future. She was right.
Best sartorial advice to pass on to your students?
Sartorial is a word that is usually used in relation to tailoring - so I guess I would say to my students, if you get the fit of a garment correct, along with the proportions and fabric choices, you will never go wrong, no matter how simple or how complex your designs are.
* AUT Rookie, Shed 12, Rhubarb Lane, Auckland. November 11, Tickets $30 from www.ticketmaster.co.nz.
