The picture was part of a fashion tribute to Jean-Paul Gaultier, who was himself criticised in 2007 for using the moko on his models.
"The image was not created or commissioned by Marie Claire, but one chosen as part of a retrospective of the work of the fashion designer," Ms Saunders said.
"We would not knowingly support the appropriation of any aspect of another culture without the support or participation of that culture."
Dr Ellis said only Maori could wear the moko, especially on the face.
The moko identifies the wearer's whakapapa, or genealogy, and role in their community
and it was not a generic design that can be put on just anyone, she said.